Books and Articles

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A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z and unsorted

Anonymous

Anonymous, "Northumberland Household Books: The Directions and Orders for Kepynge of my Lorde's House Yerely (30 September 1511)," The Antiquarian Repertory, vol. 4 (1784) p. 197-216 https://archive.org/details/antiquarianreper04gros/ Expense accounts with linen cloth a yard broad, laundry, divers spices, etc.

Das Buch von guter Speise in the Hausbuch of Michael de Leone (d. 1355). Many editions eg. aichholzer-drei-kochbuecher

Die Erforschung von Alltag und Sachkultur des Mittelalters. Methode – Ziel – Verwirklichung, Internat. Round-Table-Gespräch, Krems a.d. Donau, 20.IX.1982 (= Veröffentlichungen des Instituts für Mittelalterliche Realienkunde Österreichs. Band 6; Sitzungsberichte der Akademie der Wissenschaften in Wien, Philosophisch-Historische Klasse. Band 4). Verlag der Österreichischen Akademie der Wissenschaften, Wien 1984, ISBN 978-3-7001-0639-5 {its in de.wikipedia s.v. Realienkunde so it must be good} siglum: erforschung-von-alltag-und-sachkultur

Anonymous (probably Raymond de Fourquevaux, possibly Guillaume de Bellay), Instructions sue le Faict de la Guerre https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k86512f/ (Paris, 1548 printing) https://books.google.ca/books?id=GmtnAAAAcAAJ (beautiful Paris, 1553 printing) https://name.umdl.umich.edu/A06617.0001.001 (London, 1589 translation). There is a modern printing by Gladys Dickinson, University of London, Athlone Press, 1954.

Anonymous, Le Ménagier de Paris (Paris, 1393). This unfinished treatise for women on household management (what Xenophon called oikonomia) addresses clothing and its repair and maintenance as well as #cooking, medicine, gardening, food preservation, and sex. The editio princeps was Jérôme Pichon (ed.), Traité de morale et d’économie domestique composé vers 1393 par un bourgeois parisien. 2 volumes (Paris: Imprimerie Crapelet, 1846-1847) Tome I (Gallica) - Tome II (Gallica) - Tome I (Internet Archive). There are translations in Eileen Power, The Goodman of Paris (1928; selective, excerpts on the Internet Medieval Sourcebook https://sourcebooks.fordham.edu/source/goodman.asp ) and Gina L. Greco and Christine M. Rose, The Good Wife’s Guide: Le Ménagies de Paris, A Medieval Household Book (Ithaca: Cornell University Press, 2009) siglum: le-menagier-de-Paris

Anonymous, "Methods and Materials of North European Painting in the National Gallery, 1400-1550." National Gallery Technical Bulletin, Vol. 18 (1997) pp. 6-55 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/research/research-resources/technical-bulletin/technical-bulletin-volume-18 {recommended by Clarke, but its focus is on the period 1450-1550 in the Low Countries}

Statutes of the Realm (of Great Britain and Ireland) best index at https://statutes.org.uk/site/collections/british-and-irish/statutes-of-the-realm/

Statuti del comune di Padova dal secolo XII all'anno 1285 (Padova: Tipografia F. Sacchetto, 1873) https://books.google.ca/books?id=Xl75sgLdt0EC {Check out the laws de Capitaneis et Custodibus pp. 116-128, de Armis Vetitis pp. 252, 253, p. 282 de Sartoribus (1236) siglum: statuti-di-padova-a-1285

Anonymous, The Times of Edward the Black Prince: Replicas of his Achievements: Knights of the Garter, Past and Present. Canterbury Papers No. 8 (The Friends of Canterbury Cathedral: Canterbury, 1954) {more information on the achievements of Edward of Woodstock and the construction of replicas to hang over his tomb} siglum: times-of-edward-the-black-prince

Anonyma, The Workwoman's Guide, containing instructions to the inexperienced in cutting out and completing those articles of wearing apparel, &c., which are usually made at home ... Second edition (London: Simpkin, Marshall, and Co., 1840) (tailoring, seamstress' work, pattern drafting) https://archive.org/details/workwomansguide00workgoog/ siglum: workwomans-guide-2e

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A

Simone Abraham-Thisse, “Les Aunes des drapiers au Moyen Age,” in J.-Cl. Hoquet (éd.), «Une activité universelle: peser et mesurer à travers les âges» Cahiers de Métrologie, Tomes 11-12 (1993-1994) pp. 385-399 {the best list of evidence for the length of various medieval ells which I have read (based mostly on handbooks for merchants from the 16th-18th centuries)} siglum: abraham-thisse-aunes-des-drapiers

Doris Aichholzer, Wildu machen ayn guet essen…Drei mittelhochdeutsche Kochbücher: Erstedition, Übersetzung, Kommentar (Peter Lang Verlag: 1999) #recipe #cooking siglum: aichholzer-drei-kochbuecher

A. Alart, "Documents sur la Langue Catalane des Anciens Comtés de Roussillon et de Cerdagne," Revue des Langues Romanes 4 (1873) pp. 44-61, 244-256, 353-385, 502-514 https://archive.org/details/revuedeslanguesr04univuoft/ siglum: alart-documents-sur-catalane

Marko Aleksić, Mediaeval Swords from Southeastern Europe: Material from 12th to 15th Century (Belgrade: Duraplast, 2007) siglum: aleksic-mediaeval-swords

Josef Alm, European Crossbows: A Survey. Royal Armouries Monograph 3 (1994) {I have not seen this} siglum:alm-european-crossbows

Thomas Amyot, “Transcript of Two Rolls, Containing an Inventory of Effects formerly Belonging to Sir John Fastolfe.” Archaeologia XXI (1826) pp. 1-50 https://archive.org/details/transcripttworo00londgoog/ {this inventory from, probably, 1459 is in English and records everything someone very rich owned} siglum:amyot-effects-fastolfe

Tina Anderlini, “The Shirt Attributed to St. Louis.” In Robin Netherton and Gale Owen-Crocker (eds.), Medieval Clothing and Textiles 11 (2015) pp. 49-78 {there is a lot of information about this garment floating around online in English, including including an article by Heather Rose Jones, but this is the first study based on taking the shirt out of its case, and it turns out that modern stitches and hangers made it hard to understand the construction of this garment without laying it flat and handling it} siglum:anderlini-shirt-st-Louis

Tina Anderlini, Le Costume Médiéval au XIIIème Siècle (1180-1320) (Éditions Heimdal: St Martin-des-Entrées, France, 2015) (cp. veniel-costume-medieval-1320-1480) siglum: anderlini-costume-medieval-1180-1320

S. Armitage-Smith (ed.) John of Gaunt’s Register (1372-76), Camden Soc. 3rd ser. 20 & 21 (London: Offices of the Royal Historical Society, 1911) Part 1 (1371-1375) and Part 2 {volume 2 p. 193 has a purchase of two yards of double camocas to make a paltock for a squire} siglum: armitage-smith-john-of-gaunts-register

Janet Arnold, “The Jupon or Coat-Armour of the Black Prince in Canterbury Cathedral.” Journal of the Church Monuments Society VIII (1993) pp. 12-22 siglum: arnold-jupon-black-prince

Janet Arnold, Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women c1560-1620 (Macmillan London Ltd.: London, 1985) siglum: arnold-patterns-of-fashion-3 {a treasury by someone with a stage-costuming background who spent a lot of time handling original clothes; part 3 of a five-part series (two volumes in the 1960s, two volumes posthumously in 2008 and 2019 by The School of Historical Dress, UK. Like any book compiled by observation over a long period of time, this contains some mistakes and some things which are now interpreted differently; trump-annotated-arnold is a good overview from 1987}

Arnold III, J. Barto, Watson, David R., and Keith, Donald H., "The Padre Island crossbows," Historical Archaeology vol. 29 (1995) pp. 4–19 https://doi.org/10.1007/BF03373578 (on a crossbow in a shipwreck off Texas from 1554)

Ruth Matilda Anderson, Hispanic Costume 1480-1530. Hispanic Society of America, New York, 1979. ISBN 87535-126-3. {very important paraphrases of early 16th century tailors and hosiers’ rules from Seville and Grenada … as far as I know, these sources were last reprinted in the 17th century!} siglum: anderson-hispanic-costume

Staffan von Arbin, Kay Douglas Smith, and Tobias B. Skowronek (2023) "The Marstrand Cannon: The earliest evidence of shipboard artillery in Europe?" The Mariner's Mirror, Vol. 109, Issue 3 https://doi.org/10.1080/00253359.2023.2225311 {a copper-alloy gun was found at a shoal near a Swedish island. brilliant except that if you diss earlier research with "the early period of the history of artillery, before about 1500, is an extremely poorly researched area with no established date frameworks, typology or terminology. The main past research tends to be poor and based on a very small numbers of pieces," then you should cite research on guns in medieval documents such as tout-firearms-in-england or Caldwell on guns in 14th century Scotland} siglum: von-arbin-et-al-marstrand-cannon

Louis Douët d’Arcq ed., Comptes de l’argenterie des rois de France au XIVe siècle (Jules Renouard: Paris, 1851) https://archive.org/details/comptesdelargen00dougoog / https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k453748d.texteImage {some information on clothing is buried among other information eg. vol. 1 pp. 142-144, vol. 2 pages 150, 151, 152 (the famous purchase of three ells of linen of Rheims to make a pattern (patron, DMF s.v. patron 2) of a little pourpoint for someone to send to Germany and make a plates for that person} siglum: darcq-comptes-de-largenterie

Louis Douët d’Arcq ed., Nouveau recueil de comptes de l’argenterie des rois de France (Jules Renouard: Paris, 1874) https://archive.org/details/nouveaurecueilde00doue/ siglum: darcq-comptes-de-largenterie-nouveau

L. Douët-d'Arcq (ed.), Comptes de l'hôtel des rois de France aux XIVe et XVe siècles (Paris: J. Renouard and Société de l'Histoire de France, 1865) https://archive.org/details/comptesdelhtel00douuoft {has a Coppin Sauvage saddler and targe-maker to Louis XI of France in 1479 and 1480, pp. 352, 357, 365, 389} siglum: douet-darcq-ed-comptes-de-lhotel

Thomas Astle, "Wardrobe Account: 1483," The Antiquarian Repertory: A Miscellaneous Assemblage of Topography, History, Biography, Customs, and Manners ... volume 2 (1779) pp. 241-277 https://archive.org/details/antiquarianreper02gros/ Wardrobe expenses for the coronation of Richard III and Anne of England with doublets etc.

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B

J. Baader (ed.), Nürnberger Polizeiordnungen aus dem 13. bis 15. Jh. (Stuttgart, 1861) https://www.digitale-sammlungen.de/en/view/bsb10737713?page=,1 {Table of contents} siglum: baader-nuerberger-polizeiordnungen

David S. Bachrach, "The Origins of the Crossbow Industry in England," Journal of Medieval Military History 2 (2004) pp. 73-88 siglum: bachrach-origins-of-the-crossbow-industry

Bachrach, David Steward (2004) “Crossbows for the King: The Crossbow during the Reigns of John and Henry III of England.” Technology and Culture, Vol. 45 No. 1 pp. 102–119 siglum: bachrach-crossbows-for-the-king-i

Bachrach, David Steward (2006) “Crossbows for the King, Part II: The Crossbow During the Reign of Edward I of England (1272–1307).” Technology and Culture, Vol. 47 No. 1 pp. 81–90 siglum: bachrach-crossbows-for-the-king-ii

Jennifer Baker, "Sitches and Seam Techniques Seen on Dark Age / Medieval Garments in Various Museum Collections" (self-published PDF, 2009) https://nvg.org.au/documents/other/stitches.pdf or https://archive.org/details/Stitches_And_Seam_Techniques siglum: baker-stitches-and-seam-techniques

Karl August Barack (ed.), Des teufels Netz, satirisch-didaktisches Gedicht aus der ersten Hälfte des fünfzehnten Jahrhunderts (Stuttgart: Litterarischer Verein, 1863) https://archive.org/details/desteufelsnetzs00baragoog/ {contains a kind of 'satire of the trades' where the Devil lists the sins of tailors, sword-cutlers, goldsmiths, etc., Wikipedia says it dates c. 1414-1420} siglum: des-teufels-netz-ed-barack

Katherine Barich and Marion McNealy, Drei Schnittbücher: Three Austrian Master Tailor Books of the 16th Century (Nadel und Faden Press, 2015) {cutting plans and suggested materials for a variety of garments from late in the 16th century, with a detailed commentary … some important 14th century cuts are missing, but it shows a way of thinking about how to use fabric and some cuts which are good fits for garments in art. There are not as many measurements on the diagrams as in Spanish examples, but you can often use the width of the cloth as a yardstick. Facsimiles of the printed books by Diego de Freyle (Folger Shakespeare Library https://luna.folger.edu/luna/servlet/s/15dv3u - Internet Archive https://archive.org/details/1588-geometria-y-traca-para-el-oficio-de-los-sastres/) Juan de Alcega, and Francisco de la Rocha de Burguen are harder to obtain but digital editions are sometimes available} siglum: barich-mcneally-drei-schnittbuecher

W. Paley Baildon, “XXII.—A Wardrobe Account of 16–17 Richard II, 1393–4,” Archaeologia, Vol. 62 No. 2 (1911) pp. 497-514 {many lists of materials used to make specific garments for an English lord– probably Roger Mortimer the 4th Earl of March, say the latest books} siglum:baildon-wardrobe-account

Charles Riley Beard, Historical Dictionary of Arms, Armour, and Fashion https://beardstrove.org/our%20work/a Beard, who died in 1958, left a manuscript and typescript dictionary of historical clothing terms from the British Isles. Entries beginnig with A have been scanned as of July 2022. siglum: beard-dictionary

Elizabeth Bennett, "King Rene's Tournament Book: A Modern English Translation" (1998) http://www.princeton.edu/~ezb/rene/renehome.html

Benton, Janetta Rebold (2009) Materials, Methods, and Masterpieces of Medieval Art. ABC-Clio: Santa Barbara, CA - Denver, CO - Oxford. {legi April 2022}

Elizabeth Birbari, Dress in Italian Painting, 1460-1500 (J. Murray: London, 1975) {Per M. Gnagy "This book teaches the reader how to look at art for clues to making a garment by observing the fabric drape, inferring the cut based on how the pattern of the fabric flows, and includes some theoretical pattern shapes." Just remember that most medieval painting is not completly naturalistic! so folds or the flow of patterns across a garment may not imitate what the eye would see} siglum: birbari-dress-in-italian-painting

Black, Maggie (2012) The Medieval Cookbook. Revised Edition NON VIDI

Blair, Claude. European Armour circa 1066 to circa 1700 (London: B.T. Batsford, 1958) {One of the last books in the antiquarian tradition, this is learned but devious- when Blair wanted to say something, but could not find a source with 1950s technology, he implied it so he could deny responsibility, and he quietly transitioned between a narrative based on art and a narrative based on surviving armour without asking whether the art, documents, and art all told the same story. Strongest on the 16th and 17th century but still the only broad history of European armour in the 14th and 15th century} siglum: blair-european-armour

Claude Blair, “The Word ‘Baselard.’” Journal of the Arms and Armour Society XI.4 (1984), pp. 193-206, pl. XLVI, XLVII siglum:blair-baselard

Claude Blair, "The Milemete Guns," Journal of the Ordnance Society vol. 16 (2004) pp. 5-16 siglum: blair-milemete-guns

Lionello Boccia, Armature di S. Maria delle Grazie di Curtatone di Mantova e l'Armatura Lombarda del '400 (Bramante Editrice: Milano, 1982) siglum: boccia-s-maria-della-grazie

Étienne Boileau, Livre des métiers (1296) = This has been published at least twice, as George Bernard Depping ed., Réglemens sur les arts et métiers de Paris rédigés au XIIIe siècle et connus sous le nom du Livre des métiers d’Etienne Boileau. Série 1. (Crapelet: Paris, 1837) https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k63740218/f468.item and as René de Lespinasse et François Bonnardot (eds.), Les Métiers et Corporations de la Ville de Paris: XIIIe Siècle. Le Livre des Métirs d’Étienne Boileau (Paris: Imprimerie Nationale, 1879) https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k110190t/f1.item 

#source:document

siglum: boileau-metiers

Walter Bombe, Nachlass-Inventare des Angelo da Uzzano und des Lodovico di Gino Capponi (Leipzig and Berlin: B.G. Teubner, 1928, reprinted Gerstenberg 1972) a noble inventory from May 1424 NON VIDI

Melanie Schuessler Bond, Dressing the Scottish Court, 1543-1553: Clothing in The Accounts of the Lord High Treasurer of Scotland (Boydell Press, 2019) ISBN 9781783272624 hardcover {very worthwhile on its specific place and time, the section on military garments is thin. If your focus is the age of Datini, then hayward-great-wardrobe-henry-vii, johnson-the-kings-servants-i, and johnson-the-queens-servants-ii are much better value for money} siglum:bond-dressing-the-scottish-court

William N. Bonds, "Some industrial price movements in medieval Genoa (1155–1255)," Explorations in Economic History, Volume 7, Issues 1–2 (Autumn–Winter 1969) pp. 123-139 {series of prices for barbaria "mail coif", osbergum "hauberk", corellus "cuirie", and panceria "haubergeon" in contracts where someone rented armour to a traveller who agreed to pay its full price if it was lost, cp. storey-technology-and-military-policy} siglum: bonds-industrial-price-movements

Bowsher, Julian / Miller, Pat (2009), The Rose and the Globe - playhouses of Shakespeare's Bankside, Southwark. Excavations 1988-90, MOLA Monograph 48 (Museum of London Archaeology: London) {Includes a fragment of a round target with red paint and an iron-reinforced rim which was probable deposited before 1592}. siglum:bowker-miller-rose-globe-playhouses

Jenny Boulboullé and Sven Dupré, Burgundian Black: Reworking Early Modern Colour Technologies. Santa Barbara: EMC Imprint, 2022. https://doi.org/10.55239/bb001 siglum: bouboulle-dupre-burgundian-black

Elisa Tosi Brandi, Abbigliamento e Società a Rimini nel XV Secolo (Panozzo Editore: Rimini, 2000) {summary of 99 inventories from Rimini dating between 1400 and 1468, with comments on the social context, sumptuary laws, etc. One of these is a wool draper’s shop (with full transcription!), two belong to men-at-arms. Her Italian is not complicated.} siglum:brandi-abbigliamento-e-societa

Elisa Tosi Brandi and Oreste Delucca, "L’inventario di Castel Sismondo del 13 ottobre 1468." In A. Turchini (ed.), Castel Sismondo, Sigismondo Pandolfo Malatesta e l’arte militare del primo Rinascimento (atti del convegno), Società Editrice “Il Ponte Vecchio”, Cesena 2003, pp. 337-355 https://www.academia.edu/30833247/Linventario_di_Castel_Sismondo_del_13_ottobre_1468 siglum: brandi-delucca-inventario-di-castel-sismondo

Elisa Tosi Brandi, L’arte del sarto nel Medioevo. Quando la moda diventa un mestiere (Il Mulino: Bologna, 2017) siglum: brandi-arte-del-sarto

Milena Bravermanová, "Pohřební oděv Jana Zhořeleckého z královské hrobky v katedrále sv. Víta na Pražském hradě – Begräbnisgewand von Jan Zhořelecký aus der königlichen Gruft im Sankt-Veits-Dom in der Prager Burg," Archeolgica Historica, vol. 31 (2006), pp. 403-412 http://hdl.handle.net/11222.digilib/140682 On the cloth-of-gold gown of John of Görlitz (d. 1396) which is assembled from many gores sewn straight-to-bias. I have an anonymous translation which was commissioned by Charles Burke of http://www.medievalburgundy.com/ c/o Tasha Kelly siglum: bravermanova-pohrhebni-odhev-jana-zhorheleckeho

Breiding, Dirk H. (2009) "The Crossbow of Count Ulrich V of Württemberg." Metropolitan Museum Journal, vol. 44 (2009) https://www.metmuseum.org/art/metpublications {see also de-cosson-crossbow-of-ulrich-v} siglum: breiding-crossbow-of-ulrich-v

Dirk H. Breiding, A Deadly Art: European Crossbows, 1250–1850 (2014) https://www.metmuseum.org/art/metpublications/ siglum:breiding-european-crossbows

Breiding, Dirk H. (2019) "Late Medieval Shields in the Philadelphia Museum of Art – A Survey." In R. Beuing und W. Augustyn (eds.) Schilde des Spätmittelalters und der Frühen Neuzeit (Passau: Klinger Verlag) pp. 69-95 {skims over many objects quickly with a focus on understanding them as art, but useful photos and thorough bibliography} siglum: breiding-medieval-shields-in-philadelphia

A.R. Bridbury, Medieval English Clothmaking: An Economic Survey (Heinemann Educational Books: The Pasold Research Fund, 1982) {Learned but focused on arguing against other people's interpretation not on providing a summary of the evidence for newcomers. A memoriable quote pp. 76, 77}

Urban society, often so amicably co-operative and even fraternal in its professions, was intensely combative, acrimonious and vindictinve in practice. There is scarcely a town with records adequate to the purpose from which we cannot glean a story of Montagues and Capulets. ...By December 1457, the mayor (of Salisbury) was driven to the point of instituting a tariff of penalties for those worthies, members of Salisbury's exclusive governing bodies, who uttered imprecautions such as: 'I defy thee: what art thou?'; or 'I as good as thou: churl, knave, harlot'; or 'I as rich as thou, and greater of livelode than thou'; or 'Though thou sit here in assembly I to contrary thee and never to agree to thee, and am better of birth than thou, and have born the worship and the estate of this city and kept it as well as thou.'

siglum: bridbury-medieval-english-clothmaking

Fabian Brenker, Die Armbrust im Hochmittelalter (Universitätsbuchhandlung A. Weger GmbH: Brixen, 2022) ISBN: 9788865633250 siglum: brenker-armbrust-im-hochmittelalter

Bertus Brocamp, "A tight fitting hood with armpit straps," Deventer Burgerscap, 1 October 2014 https://deventerburgerscap.blogspot.com/2014/10/a-tight-fitting-hood-with-armpit-straps.html siglum: brocamp-hood-with-armpit-straps

Brown-Grant, Rosalind, and Mario Damen, eds. Pas d’armes and Late Medieval Chivalry: A Casebook (Liverpool University Press, 2024) https://www.liverpooluniversitypress.co.uk/doi/book/10.3828/9781835537664 siglum: brown-grand-damen-pas-d-armes-casebook

Johann Karl Brucker (ed.), Strassburger Zunft- und Polizei-Verordnungen des 14. und 15. Jahrhunderts (Karl J. Trübner Verlag: Strassburg, 1889) https://www.google.ca/books/edition/Strassburger_zunft_und_polizei_verordnun/RsJBAAAAYAAJ or https://archive.org/details/bub_gb_RsJBAAAAYAAJ/ siglum: brucker-strassburger-zunft-und-polizeiordnungen

Brun Robert (1934) "Notes sur le commerce des objets d'art en France et principalement à Avignon à la fin du XIVe siècle," Bibliothèque de l'école des chartes, tome 95, pp. 327-346 https://doi.org/10.3406/bec.1934.449069 (covers panel painting, painted coffers, embroideries, painted cloth, embroidery, enamel, goldsmith's work with some transcriptions) siglum: brun-commerce-d'art

Brun, Robert (1951) "Notes sur le commerce des armes à Avignon au XIVe siècle," Bibliothèque de l'école des chartes, tome 109, pp. 209-231 http://dx.doi.org/10.3406/bec.1951.449441 siglum: brun-commerce-des-armes

Joseph P. Bryne, Eleanor A. Congdon, "Mothering in the Casa Datini," Journal of Medieval History, Volume 25, Issue 1 (1999) pp. 35-56

Anne H. van Buren with the assistance of Roger S. Wieck, Illuminating Fashion: Dress in the Art of Medieval France and the Netherlands, 1325-1515 (New York: The Morgan Library and Museum, 2011) N8217 C63B87 2011 Bookfinder or https://www.amazon.com/Illuminating-Fashion-Medieval-Netherlands-1325-1515/dp/1904832903 siglum: van-buren-illuminating-fashion

Dorothy K. Burnham, Cut my Cote (1973) {the standard introduction to clothing assembled from rectangles and triangles, allowing almost all of the fabric to be used … in Datini’s urban world most clothing was probably assembled in other ways, but triangle-and-rectangle construction was still widespread in rural Europe at the beginning of the 20th century} siglum: burnham-cut-my-cote

François Buttin, "La Lance et l'arrêt de cuirasse," Archeologia, Vol. XCIX (1965) pp. 77-205 siglum: buttin-arret-de-cuirasse

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C

Aurora Fiorentini Capitani, Vittorio Erlindo, and Stefania Ricci, Il Costume al Tempo do Pico e Lorenzo di Medici (Milan: Edizione Charta, 1994) pp. 84-90 on doublets cited and translate by Liz Jones siglum: xyz

Cappelli, Dizionario di Abbreviature Guide to the abbreviations and ligatures in medieval Latin manuscripts and incunabula. An English translation of the introductory essay is at https://kuscholarworks.ku.edu/bitstream/handle/1808/1821/47cappelli.pdf?sequence=3 while specific entries can be searched https://www.adfontes.uzh.ch/

Tobias Capwell, Armour of the English Knight, 1400-1450 (Thomas Del Mar: London, 2015) siglum: capwell-aotek-i

Tobias Capwell, Armour of the English Knight, 1450-1500 (Thomas del Mar: London, 2021) ISBN 978-0993324635 siglum: capwell-aotek-ii

Tobias Capwell, Armour of the English Knight: Continental Armour in England, 1435-1500 (Thomas del Mar: London, 2022) ISBN 978-0993324635 siglum: capwell-aotek-iii

Tobias Capwell, Armour of the English Knight: An Armourer's Album (Thomas del Mar: Great Britain, 2025) siglum: capwell-aotek-album

Capwell, Tobias. "Mail and the Knight in Renaissance Italy, Part I" In Armi Antiche: Bollettino dell’Accademia di San Marciano - Torino, 2017 pp. 9-84

Capwell, Tobias. “A Depiction of an Italian Arming Doublet, c1435-45.” Zeitschrift für Waffen- und Kostümkunde, NS. Bd. 44 Heft 2 (2002), pp. 177–196

Dominique Cardon, La Draperie au Moyen Âge (Paris: CNRS Éditions, 1999) cp. lee-medieval-clothier siglum: cardon-draperie

Ann Causton, "The Account of John of Cologne, the King's Linen-Armourer, 1330-1 (TNA, E101/384/17)," London and Middlesex Archaeological Society Transactions, vol. 68 (2017) pp. 91—112 http://www.lamas.org.uk/

William Caxton, Dialogues in French and English,, ed. Henry Bradley (Early English Texts Society: London, 1900) pp. 14-17, 22 have a dialogue between a tailor and a customer and a doublet maker / pourpointier who makes jackets / paltocks https://archive.org/details/dialoguesinfren00caxtgoog/page/n36/mode/2up

Cennino Cennini, Il Libro dell’ Arte. This treatise on painting, written before 1437 (possibly in the 1390s?), contains valuable material on block printing, painting textiles, materials used for different trades, and a way of approaching problems. Gaetano and Carlo Milanesi’s Italian text from 1867 is available on the Hathi Trust https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=hvd.32044033673427;view=1up;seq=169; the D.V. Thompson translation is available in an affordable reprint from Dover or free as HTML; the latest edition and translation is Lara Broecke, Cennino Cennini’s Il Libro dell’Arte: A New English Translation and Commentary with Italian Transcription (Archetype Publications: London, 2015) ISBN-13 978-1909492288. siglum: cennini-libro-dell-arte

R. W. Chambers and M. Daunt (eds.), A Book of London English, 1384-1425 (1931) {sourcebook with a handy document requesting shirts, hose, doublets for Henry V's army in France} siglum: chambers-daunt-eds-london-english

Chambers, Mark C. (2009) "'What is this, a betell, or a batowe, or a buskyn lacyd?' Lexicological Confusion in Medieval Clothing Culture." In Javier E. Díaz Vera and Rosario Caballero Rodríguez, eds., Textual Healing: Studies in Medieval English Medical, Scientific, and Technical Texts (Bern and NY: Peter Lang), pp. 55-74

Paul E. Chevedden, “The Invention of the Counterweight Trebuchet: A Study in Cultural Diffusion,” Dumbarton Oaks Papers, Vol. 54 (2000), pp. 71-116 siglum: chevedden-invention-of-the-trebuchet

Raffaele Ciasca, ed., Statuti dell'Arte dei Medici e Speziali (Chamber of Commerce and Industry: Florence, 1922) https://archive.org/details/statutidellarted00arteuoft (guild rules for among other things the painters of Florence) siglum: ciasca-ed-statuti-dell-arte

Mark Clarke, The Art of All Colours: Mediaeval Recipe Books for Painters and Illuminators (Archetype Publications, 2001) ISBN 1873132727 siglum: clarke-art-of-all-colours

Mark Clarke, "Writing recipes for non-specialists c. 1300: The Anglo-Latin Secretum Philosophorum, Glasgow MS Hunterian 110," in Erma Hermens and Joyce H. Townsend (eds.), Sources and Serendipity: Testimonies of Artists' Practice (London: Archetype Publications, 2009) pp. 50-64 and Plate 18 siglum: clarke-secretum-philosophorum

Clarke, Mark (2011) Medieval Painters' Materials and Techniques: The Montpellier Liber Diversarum Arcium (Archetype Publications: London) {an early 15th century copy of a collection of Latin recipes perhaps begun somewhere in the north circa 1300 and expanded later in the 14th century closer to Italy; Clarke thinks its a poor copy of a treatise by a skilled and scholarly painter, your mileage may vary} siglum: clarke-ed-liber-diversarium-arcium

Mark Clarke (ed.), The Craft of Lymmyng and The Maner of Steynyng: Middle English Recipes for Painters, Stainers, Scribes, and Illuminators. Early English Text Society Original Series (Early English Text Society, 2016) siglum: clarke-ed-craft-of-lymyng

Valeria di Clemente, "The Trousseau of Isabella Bruce, Queen of Norway," Medieval Clothing and Textiles 18 (2024) pp. 73-95 Dated 25 September 1293 at Bergen siglum: di-clemente-trousseau-of-isabella-bruce

Elizabeth Coatsworth et al., Clothing the Past: Surviving Garments from Early Medieval to Early Modern Western Europe (2017) {has an article on the Rothwell jack} siglum:coatsworth-et-al-clothing-the-past

The Company of Saynte George, Clothing Guide- Men, version 1.1 - December 2010 https://www.ageofdatini.info/images/2021/05/compagnie_st_george_clothing_guide_men_latest_hires.pdf siglum:st-george-clothing-men-1-1

R.D. Connor, The Weights and Measures of England (H.M.S.O. for The Science Museum: London, 1987) {cp. Zupko} siglum: connor-weights-and-measures

Philippe Contamine, "L'Armement des Populations Urbaines dans la France de la Fin du Moyen Âge: L'Exemple des Habitants de Troyes (1474)," Fasciculi Archaeologiae Historicae, Fasc. V, pp. 9-16 siglum: contamine-armement-des-populations-urbaines

Ricardo Córdoba ed., Craft Treatises and Handbooks: The Dissemination of Technical Knowledge in the Middle Ages (Brepolis: Turnhout, Belgium, 2013) non vidi siglum: cordoba-ed-craft-treatises-and-handbooks

Camille Couderc, Les comptes d’un grand couturier parisien du XVe siècle (Paris: n.p., 1911) https://archive.org/details/lescomptesdungra00coud/ {Dates from 1423 to 1473 and not tremendously exciting (more summaries than complete lists of materials for specific garments)} siglum:couderc-comptes-dun-couturier

Cousins, Tom (2024) "The Mortar Wreck: a mid-thirteenth-century ship, wrecked off Studland Bay, Dorset, carrying a cargo of Purbeck stone," Antiquity (2024) pp. 1-15 doi:10.15184/aqy.2024.82 siglum: cousins-mortar-wreck

J. Cowgill, M. de Neergaard, and P. Wilthew, Knives and Scabbards. Medieval Finds from Excavations in London: 1 (Boydell Press: Woodbridge, Suffolk, 2000) {The basic reference on knives, sheaths, shears, and scissors from the 12th to the 15th century, with many measurements and B&W drawings} siglum: MoL-knives-and-scabbards

Ann Crabb, The Merchant of Prato’s Wife (University of Michigan Press, 2015) ISBN 978-0-472-11949-3 {basically a book of social history, and tends to summarize rather than quote sources, but many details about how clothing fit into everyday life} siglum:crabb-merchant-of-pratos-wife

Candace Crockett, Card Weaving. Revised edition (Interweave Press: Loveland, Colorado, 1991) {On tablet weaving} siglumL crocket-card-weaving-revised

Cunnington, Cecil Willett, and Cunnington, Phillis, Handbook of English Mediaeval Costume. Second edition (Faber & Faber: London 1969) siglum: cunnington-and-cunninton-2e

Peter Collingwood, The Techniques of Tablet Weaving (Robin & Russ Handweaver's: McMinnville, Oregon, 1982; reprinted 2002, 2015) siglum: collingwood-techniques-of-tablet-weaving

Charles Alexander, Baron de Cosson, “The Crossbow of Ulrich V. Count of Wurtemburg (sic), 1460, with remarks on its construction,” Archaeologia, Vol. 52 No. 2 (1893) pp. 445-464, pl. 34 {the first article to dissect a European composite crossbow, and to publish two list of materials for making some in 1358 and 1361; the titular crossbow is now Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, accession number 04.3.36, see also breiding-crossbow-of-ulrich-v} siglum:de-cosson-crossbow-of-ulrich-v

Oliver H. Creighton, Robert Liddiard, Alan K. Outram, Carly Ameen, Kate Kanne (eds.), Medieval Warhorse: Equestrian Landscapes, Material Culture and Zooarchaeology in Britain, AD 800–1550 (Liverpool University Press, 2025) https://www.liverpooluniversitypress.co.uk/doi/book/10.3828/9781836243359 siglum: creighton-et-al-medieval-warhorse

Elizabeth Crowfoot, “The Clothing of a Fourteenth-Century Nubian Bishop.” In Veronika Gervers ed., Studies in Textile History in Memory of Harold B. Burnham (Toronto: Royal Ontario Museum, 1977) pp. 43-51 OCLC 4035631 {Grave of Bishop Timotheos of Ibrîm in Nubia who took office, according to the scroll deposited in the tomb, in 1372. Where in wet sites from Europe the wool survives and the linen is lost, here the linen and cotton survived and the wool was devoured by insects! The grave goods include a tunic, hooded oval cloak, trousers, and woven belt} siglum:crowfoot-nubian-bishop

Elisabeth Crowfoot, Frances Pritchard and Kay Staniland, Textiles and Clothing, c.1150-1450. Second edition. Medieval Finds from Excavations in London (The Boydell Press: Woodbridge, Suffolk) ISBN-13 9781843832393 siglum: MoL-textiles-and-clothing

Anne Curry, The Battle of Agincourt: Sources and Interpretations. War in History (The Boydell Press: Woodbridge, Suffolk, 2000) siglum: curry-battle-of-agincourt-sources-and-interpretations

Anne Curry, "Disciplinary ordinances for English and Franco-Scottish Armies in 1385: An International Code?" Journal of Medieval History vol. 37 (2011) pp. 269–294 siglum: curry-disciplinary-ordinances-1385

Anne Curry and Susan Jenkins (eds.), The Funeral Achievements of Henry V at Westminster Abbey: The Arms and Armour of Death (Boydell & Brewer: Martlesham, Suffolk, 2022) siglum: curry-jenkins-eds-funeral-achievements-henry-v

Cuvelier, Chronique de Bertrand du Guesclin. Edited by Ernest Charrière (Firmin Didot: Paris, 1839) tome I and tome II (information about other editions and translations on Arlima) siglum: cuvelier-chronique-de-bertran-du-guesclin

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D

Margherita Datini, Letters to Francesco Datini. Translated by Carolyn James and Antonio Pagliaro. Iter Press and the Centre for Reformation and Renaissance Studies, Victoria University in the University of Toronto: Toronto, 2012. (NB. page 27 "Costume historians might find the translation somewhat lacking in precision, where our decision to use current English ruled out exact English equivalents from the specialized vocabulary of fourteenth-century clothing. We have preferred generic words such as “overgown” for the familiar cioppa seen in contemporary paintings of both men and women.") siglum: margherita-datini-to-francisco-datini

Datini, Margherita. Le Lettere di Margherita Datini a Francesco di Marco (1384–1410). Edited by Valeria Rosati. Prato: Cassa di Risparmio e di Depositi, 1977. siglum: lettere-di-margherita-datini-a-francesco-ed-rosati

Datini, Margherita. Per la tua Margherita: Lettere di una donna del ’300 al marito mercante. Prato: Archivio di Stato di Prato, 2002. Compact disc.

Datini, Francesco. Le Lettere di Francesco Datini alla moglie Margherita (1385–1410). Edited by Elena Cecchi. Prato: Storia Pratese di Storia Patria, 1990.

Davila Corona, R.M. / Duran Pujol, M. / Garcia Fernandez, M. (2004) Diccionario Historico de Telas y Tejidos: Castellano-Catalan (Junta de Castilla y León, Consejería de Cultura y Turismo, Valladolid) ISBN-13 9788497182065

Dean, Bashford (1929) Catalogue of European Daggers Including the Ellis, De Dino, Riggs and Reubell Collections (The Metropolitan Museum of Art: New York) https://www.metmuseum.org/art/metpublications/Catalogue_of_European_Daggers siglum: dean-european-daggers

Chrétien Dehaisnes, Documents et extraits diverses concernant l’histoire de l’Art (Lille: L. Daniel, 1886) volume 1 (up to 1373) https://archive.org/details/documentsetextra01deha {mostly on books, armour, goldsmith’s work, and other durable goods but there are some banners and other tailor’s work} siglum: dehaisnes-documents-et-extraits-diverses-i

Chrétien Dehaisnes, Documents et extraits diverses concernant l’histoire de l’Art (Lille: L. Daniel, 1886) volume 2 (1374-1401) https://archive.org/details/documentsetextra02deha {check out the inventory of the effects of Philip the Good of Burgundy on pages 847-849} siglum: dehaisnes-documents-et-extraits-diverses-ii

Vladimir Denkstein, "Pavézy ceského typu. Studie k dejinám husitské vojenské tradice, jejího rozšírení a vlivu v 15. století. I. [Pavises of the Bohemian Type. Contribution to the history of the Hussite military tradition, its dissemination and influence in the 15th century]," Acta Musei Nationalis Pragae, Series A, Historia, Bd. XVI 1962, pp. pp. 185-228 non vidi siglum: denkstein-pavises-bohemian-type-i

Vladimir Denkstein, "Pavézy ceského typu. II. Puvod a vývoj pavéz v predhusitské Evrope [Pavises of the Bohemian Type. II. The Origin and Development of Pavises in pre-Hussite Europe]," Acta Musei Nationalis Pragae, Series A, Historia, Bd. XVIII 1964, pp. 107-194 siglum: denkstein-pavises-bohemian-type-ii

Vladimir Denkstein, "Pavézy ceského typu. III. Pavézy v ceských historických pramenech [Pavises in Czech Historical Sources]," Acta Musei Nationalis Pragae, Series A, Historia, Bd. XIX 1965 pp. pp. 1-202 siglum: denkstein-pavises-bohemian-type-iii

Denkstein, Vladimír (1964) "Pavesen böhmischen Typs im Historischen Museum der Stadt Wien," Sborník prací Filozofické Fakulty Brnenské Univerzity F, vol. 8 (1964) pp. 125-135 siglum: denkstein-pavesen-im-museum-der-stadt-wien

Sophie Desrosiers, Gabriel Vial, and Daniël De Jonghe, "Cloth of Aresta: A Preliminary study of its Definition, Classification, and Method of Weaving," Textile History, vol. 20 no. 2, pp. 199–223. https://doi.org/10.1179/004049689793700293 siglum: desrosier-vial-de-jonghe-cloth-of-aresta

Lisa Deutscher, Mirjam Kaiser and Sixt Wetzler, eds., The Sword: Form and Thought (Boydell & Brewer: Woodbridge, 2019) {A conference proceedings, not to be confused with the volume from the same conference with the Elmslie typology of single-edged swords. Non vidi)

Devillers, Léopold (1881) Cartulaire des comtes de Hainaut, de l'avènement de Guillaume II à la mort de Jacqueline de Bavière, tome 1 (Brusells: F. Hayez, 1881) https://archive.org/details/cartulairedescom01deviuoft/ p. 559 has one version of the inventory of the armoury of William III of Hainault from 22 August 1358 cited by Anne van Buren, António Oliveira cites another edition from 1869

Kelly DeVries, "The introduction and use of the pavise in the Hundred Years War," Arms and Armour, vol. 4 no. 2 (2007) pp. 93-100 siglum: devries-pavise-in-the-hyw

Denis Diderot and Jean le Rone d'Alembert (eds.), Encyclopédie (1751-1772 with later revisions, suppliments, and translations) http://enccre.academie-sciences.fr/encyclopedie/ (photos of the plates and transcript) - https://quod.lib.umich.edu/d/did/ (text-only translation) {an essential source of hints as to how the descendants of trecento people did things} siglum: diderot-encyclopedie

Lorenz Diefenbach, Glossarium Latino-Germanicum Mediae et Infimae Aetatis (Frankfurt-am-Main: Joseph Baer Verlag, 1857) https://archive.org/details/glossariumlatino00dief/ The shelfmarks and dates of his sources are not always clear, but still worth browsing from Latin to German

Thérèse de Dillmont, ENCYCLOPEDIA OF NEEDLEWORK (1884) http://encyclopediaofneedlework.com/index.htm {handy guide to terms used but not defined by writers in the 20th century} siglum: de-dillmont-needlework

Dillon, Harold Arthur (1888) "XIII.—Arms and Armour at Westminster, the Tower, and Greenwich, 1547," Archaeologia, or, Miscellaneous Tracts Dedicated to Antiquity, vol. 51 issue 1 pp. 219-280 siglum: dillon-arms-and-armour-1547

Viscount Dillon (Harold Arthur Lee-Dillon), "On a MS. Collection of Ordinances of Chivalry of the Fifteenth Century, belonging to Lord Hastings." Archaeologia, or, Miscellaneous Tracts Relating to Antiquity, Vol. 57, No. 1 (1900) pp. 29-70 siglum: dillon-ordinances-of-chivalry On Age of Datini

Chris Dobson, Art and Armour in the Western Alps: Milan, Savoy, and the 'French Style' 1400-1500 (self-published PDF, 2020) ISBN 0-95411633-1-1 https://renaissancedissident.com/italian-armor-in-the-french-style.html siglum: dobson-armour-western-alps

Valerie Dorge and F. Carey Howlett (eds.), Painted Wood: History and Conservation (1998) http://www.getty.edu/conservation/publications_resources/pdf_publications/paintedwood.html NON VIDI siglum: dorge-and-howlett-eds-painted-wood

Keith Dowen, Lech Marek, Sławomir Słowiński, Anna Uciechowska-Gawron, and Elżbieta Myśkow, "Two Twelfth-Century Kite Shields from Szczecin, Poland," Arms & Armour, Vol. 16 No. 2 (2019), pp. 121-148, DOI: 10.1080/17416124.2019.1667049 siglum: dowen-et-al-kite-shields-from-szczecin

Keith Dowen, "The Introduction and Development of Plate Armour in Western Europe, c. 1250–1350," Fasciculi Archaeologiae Historicae 30 (2017), pp. 19–28 https://rcin.org.pl/dlibra/publication/83461/edition/63756 {cited in moffat-arms-and-armour-sourcebook-i} siglum: dowen-development-of-plate-armour

Carol van Driel-Murray “Fourteenth-century sword sheaths from Leiden city centre.” In Quita Mould (ed.) Leather in Warfare: Attack, Defence and the Unexpected (Leeds: Royal Armouries Museum, 2017) pp. 34-47 https://openaccess.leidenuniv.nl/bitstream/handle/1887/57788/Sheaths_Leiden.pdf?sequence=1 {the leathers of sword sheaths, probably mostly from the early 14th century} siglum: van-driel-murray-sword-sheaths-leiden

Jill Dunkerton, Jo Kirby, and Raymond White (1990) "Varnish and Early Italian Tempera Paintings," Studies in Conservation, vol. 35 sup. 1, pp. 63-69, DOI: 10.1179/sic.1990.35.s1.015 (some restorers and tempera painters had convinced themselves that medieval panel paintings had no varnish or a dull varnish, they experiment with medieval recipes and suspect that medieval varnish was glossy) siglum: dunkerton-kirby-white-varnish-and-tempera

Günter Düriegl, Wehrhafte Stadt: Das Wiener Bürgerliche Zeughaus im 15. und 16. Jahrhundert (Historisches Museum der Stadt Wien: Vienna, 1986) siglum: duriegl-wehrhafte-stadt

Christopher Dyer, Standards of Living in the Later Middle Ages: Social Change in England c. 1200-1520 (Cambridge University Press: Cambridge, 1989) siglum: dyer-standards-of-living

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E

Ian Eaves, “On the Remains of a Jack of Plate Excavated from Beeston Castle in Cheshire,” Journal of the Arms and Armour Society 13: 2 (1989) pp. 81-154 {contributions from what looks like Claude Blair's card index, compare gabra-sanders-jack-at-craigievar-castle - piper-tailored-for-combat - way-brigandine-headpiece} siglum: eaves-jack-of-plates

Gerry Embleton and John Howe, The Medieval Soldier: 15th Century Camp Life Recreated in Colour Photographs (Windrowe & Greene: London, 1994) siglum: embleton-howe-medieval-soldier

Geoff Egan and Frances Pritchard, Dress Accessories, 1150-1450. Medieval Finds from Excavations in London (London: HMSO, 1991) {Covers buckles and other metal mounts for leather, broaches, rings, buttons, needlecases, combs, girdles and straps, pouches, and mirrors in cases} siglum:MoL-dress-accessories

Sven Ekdahl, "Horses and Crossbows: Two Important Warfare Advantages of the Teutonic Order in Prussia," in Helen J. Nicholson, ed., The Military Orders, Volume 2: Welfare and Warfare (Ashgate Publishing: Aldershot, 1998) pp. 119-151 https://deremilitari.org/2014/03/horses-and-crossbows-two-important-warfare-advantages-of-the-teutonic-order-in-prussia/ siglum: ekdahl-horses-and-crossbows

Stuart Ellis-Gorman, The Medieval Crossbow: A Weapon Fit to Kill a King (Pen & Sword, 2022) ISBN 9781526789532 Publisher's site (cp. gorman-development-of-the-bow-and-crossbow) siglum: ellis-gorman-medieval-crossbow

Joan Evans, Dress in Mediaeval France (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1952) {one of the last works in the antiquarian tradition, this book is a good guide to medieval texts to track down and read in the original language … be careful of her paraphrases of the sources, and remember that she was writing when few surviving garments and textile fragments had been published} siglum:evans-dress-in-mediaeval-france

Despoina Evgenidou et al., The City of Mystras, trans. D. Hardy (Athens: Hellenic Ministry of Culture, 2001) cat. 104 ISBN 960-214-681-8 https://archive.org/details/hellenic-ministry-of-culture-byzantine-hours-the-works-and-days-in-byzantium-the/ (the clothing of a high-status woman from the early fifteenth century from St. Sophia on Mystra)

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F

Noel Fallows, Jousting in Medieval and Renaissance Iberia (Boydell Press, 2010) {contains texts and translation of three jousting manuals, non vidi} siglum: fallows-jousting-in-iberia

Noel Fallows (ed.), A Cultural History of Sport in the Medieval Age (Bloomsbury Academic, 2022) ISBN 9781350023970 non vidi

Faltermeier, Christel, and Rudolf Meyer (1995) "Appendix: Notes on the Restoration of the Behaim Shields," Metropolitan Museum Journal, vol. 30 (1995) https://www.metmuseum.org/art/metpublications/ {see also nickel-seven-shields-of-behaim} siglum: faltermeier-meyer-restoration-behaim-shields

Guilhelm Ferrand with help from Jean-Pierre Garcia, Les inventaires après décès de la ville de Dijon à la fin du Moyen Âge (1390-1459). Tome I : 1390-1408 (Méridiennes Presses Universitaires du Midi: Tolouse, 2018) ISBN-13 978-2-8107-0544-3 open access at https://books.openedition.org/pumi/41848 {for 25 Euros you get 660 pages of nice detailed technical sources, what are you waiting for? You can buy it direct from the publisher or find it on Bookfinder} siglum:ferrand-inventaires-dijon-i

Charles John ffoulkes, The armourer and his craft from the XIth to the XVIth century (Methuen: London, 1912) https://archive.org/details/armourerhiscraft00ffouuoft/ siglum: ffoulkes-armourer-and-his-craft

Ilse Fingerlin, Gürtel des hohen und späten Mittelalters. Kunstwissenschaftliche Studien, Bd. 46. München: Deutscher Kunstverlag, 1971. {Robert Macpherson tentatively recommends it as a typology of belt furniture} siglum:fingerlin-guertel-des-mittelalters

Fingerlin, Ilse (1997) “Seltene Textilien aus Kloster Alpirsbach im Nordschwarzwald.” Waffen- und Kostümkunde: Zeitschrift der Gesellschaft für Historische Waffen- und Kostümkunde, Band 39, Heft 1 & 2, pp. 99-122 {the publication of a child's canvas doublet (Wams) and a pair of linen joined hosen dating roughly 1490-1535 n.b they are so long that don’t have eyelets to attach them to a doublet! There is an English summary on GermanRenaissance.net} siglum:fingerlin-textilien-aus-kloster-alpirsbach

Fingerlin, Ilse (2001) "Textil- und Lederfunde." In Alpirsbach. Zur Geschichte von Kloster und Stadt. Textband 2. Forschungen und Berichte der Bau- und Kunstdenkmalpflege Baden-Württemberg 10 (Stuttgart 2001) pp. 715-817 ISBN 978-3-8062-1336-2 {another writeup of the 16th century canvas clothing and leather shoes from Kloster Alpirsbach, this was priced for libraries but copies are available for 39 or 48 Euros from AntikMakler and the Gesellschaft für Achäologie in Württemberg and Hohenyollern (both in Germany) as of 2021} siglum: fingerlin-textil-und-lederfunde

Jessica Finley, “The Lübeck Wappenröcke: Distinctive Style in Fifteenth-Century German Fabric Armor.” In Robin Netherton and Gale R. Owen-Crocker (eds.), Medieval Clothing and Textiles 13 (Boydell and Brewer, 2017) pp. 121-152 siglum:finley-luebeck-wappenroecke

Édouard Forestié, Les Livres de comptes des frères Bonis, marchands montalbanais du XIVe siècle. Archives Historiques de la Gascogne, Fasc. XX, XXIII, XXVI. Honore Champion and Cocharaux Frères: Paris and Auch, 1890 and 1893 and 1894. {The accounts of this family of drapers list the cloth sold to make specific garments for specific people in specific years; the editor collected references to specific garments, suggested French equivalents of Occitan words, and researched weights, measures, etc.}. siglum:forestie-livres-de-comptes

Lois Forster, Chevaliers et hommes d’armes dans l’espace bourguignon au XVe siècle. PhD thesis, Histoire, Université de Lille, 2018 https://theses.hal.science/tel-02137488/

Frederick J. Furnivall, ed., Fifty earliest English wills in the Court of Probate, London : A. D. 1387-1439 : with a priest's of 1454 (London: Oxford University Press, 1964) siglum: furnivall-fifty-english-wills

Lilli Fransen, Anna Nørgaard and Else Østergård, Medieval Garments Reconstructed: Norse Clothing Patterns (Aarhus University Press: Aarhus, 2011) {on Norse Greenland, to be read with Østergård, Woven into the Earth} siglum:medieval-garments-reconstructed

Luciana Frangioni, “Bacinetti e altre difese della testa nella documentazione di uníazienda mercantile, 1366-1410,” Archeologia Medievale XI (1984), pp. 507-522 siglum:frangioni-bacinetti

Frangioni, Luciana. (1984) "Martino da Milano 'fa i bacinetti in Avignone.'" Ricerche storiche: Rivista quadrimestrale dell'Associazione "Ricerche Storiche e Archeologia Industriale" vol. 14 (1984) pp. 69-116 siglum: frangioni-martino-da-milano

Luciana Frangioni (ed.), Milano fine Trecento: il carteggio milanese dell'Archivio Datini di Prato, 2 volumes (Firenze: Opus Libri, 1994) siglum:frangioni-milano-fine-trecento [Transcription of volume II at http://aspweb.ovi.cnr.it/%28S%28mn4r2hz0ntblje55w1is2255%29%29/CatForm01.aspx]

Luciana Frangioni, Chiedere e Ottenere: L’approvvigionamento di prodotto di sucesso della Bottega Datini di Avignone nel XIV secolo (Florence: Opus Libri, 2002) siglum:frangioni-chiedere-e-ottenere

Luciana Frangioni, “Corazze ed altre difese del busto in una documentazione mercantile di fine Trecento,” in Anna Maria Falchero ed., La storia e l’economia: miscellanea di studi in onore di Giorgio Mori, (Varese: Edizioni Lativa, 2003) pp. 315-322 siglum:frangioni-corazze

Katherine L. French, Household Goods and Good Households in Late Medieval London: Consumption and Domesticity After the Plague (University of Pennsylvania Press, 2021) ISBN 978-0812253054 siglum: french-household-goods-in-london

Carole Collier Frick, Dressing Renaissance Florence: Families, Fortunes, and Fine Clothing (John Hopkins University Press, 2005) taillor, seamstress, doublet-maker, aristocratic and social focus siglum: frick-dressing-renaissance-florence

Jean Froissart, Chroniques. This is hard to cite. Froissart just divided it into four books and released many versions which later copyists edited, abbreviated, and expanded. There is an edition by the Société de l’Histoire de France (SHF) with chapter numbers, but it only covers the first three books and older editions don't use it. There is a massive edition in 25 volumes by Baron Kervyn de Lettenhove 1867-1877 but it is not numbered. So its very hard to find a given passage in whatever arbitrary edition is to hand. The Online Froissart publishes individual manuscripts (!) but also has an index by SHF chapter https://www.dhi.ac.uk/onlinefroissart/. A translation by Thomas Johnes published in 1857 is on the Internet Archive vol. 1 vol. 2 siglum: froissart-chroniques

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Thea Gabra-Sanders, "Part of a 16th Century Quilted Jack of Plate Found at Craigievar Castle, Aberdeenshire," Journal of the Arms & Armour Society, Vol. 14, No. 3, pp. 147-152 siglum: gabra-sanders-jack-at-craigievar-castle

Galili, Ehud / Rosen, B. (2014) "A 15th‐Century Wreck of an Ordnance‐Carrying Ship from Atlit North Bay, Israel," International Journal of Nautical Archaeology, vol. 43 nr. 1, pp. 115-127, DOI: 10.1111/1095-9270.12034

John de Garlande, Dictionarius (Paris and Toulouse, c. 1220). A handy edition and translation of this guide to all the Latin nouns a student in Paris needed for everyday life is Barbara Blatt Rubin (tr.), The Dictionarius of John de Garlande: And the Author's Commentary (The Coronado Press: Lawrence, Kansas, 1981) https://web.archive.org/ siglum: garlande-dictionarius-tr-rubin

Garnier, Joseph (1895) L'artillerie des ducs de Bourgogne: d'après les documents conservés aux archives de la Côte-d'Or. Paris: H. Champion. {thanks Will McLean for the reference} siglum: garnier-artillerie-des-ducs

François-Alexandre-Pierre de Garsault, Art du Tailleur (1769) https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k108876j English translation of the section on men’s shirts at marquise.de {more detailed than the Austrian and Spanish books from the 16th century, since the author was a scholar trying to explain the art to a wide audience} siglum:garsault-art-du-tailleur

François-Alexandre-Pierre de Garsault, L’Art de la Lingere (1771) https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b7200315v/ {instructions for men’s (p. 44, pl. III) and women’s shirts and other linens, and he defines all the different stitches with diagrams. An English translation is ongoing at http://www.mimicofmodes.com/search/label/Garsault} siglum:garsault-art-du-lingere

Jack Gassmann, "The Use of the Crossbow in Medieval Cavalry." In Anastasija Ropa and Timothy Dawson (eds.), The Horse in Premodern European Culture (De Gruyter, January 2020) siglum:gassman-crossbow-cavalry

Jürg Gassmann, "The Bolognese Societates Armatae of the Late 13th Century," Acta Periodica Duellatorum, 2.1 (2014) pp. 195-233 https://doi.org/10.36950/apd-2014-007 siglum: gassmann-societates-armatae

Victor Gay, Glossaire Archéologique du Moyen Age et de la Renaissance. Paris: Libraire de la Société Archéologique, 1887 and 1928. Tome 1 A-G and Tome 2 H-Z have been scanned. {A collection of excerpts from written sources, mostly from France and all in the original language. Useful entries include:

siglum:gay-glossaire

Jennifer Louise Geard, Goodly Gear: An Annotated Bibliography of Resources for Recreating Medieval and Renaissance Clothing. Revised edition (Master's thesis, Victoria University Wellington, 1999) http://verso.org/clothing/goodly-gear-rev-ed.doc siglum: geard-goodly-gear-revised

A. Geibig, Beiträge zur morphologischen Entwicklung des Schwertes im Mittelalter. Eine Analyse des Fundmaterials von ausgehenden 8. bis 12. Jahrhundert aus Sammlungen der Bundesrepublik Deutschland. Offa-Bücher 71. Neumünster, 1991. {non vidi; pp. 104 ff. discuss scabbards from this early period} siglum:geibig-zur-morphologischen-entwicklung

Agnes, Geijer, Anne Marie Franzen, and Margareta Nockert, Drottning Margaretas gyllene kjortel i Uppsala domkyrka. Stockholm: Kingl. Vitterhets Historie och Antikvitets Akademien, 1994. (on the Golden Kirtle of Queen Margaret of Sweden, traditionally from 1363, carbon-dated to 1403-1439) siglum: geijer-et-al-margaretas-gyllene-kjortel

Marc Gener, "Metallographic Study of Some 17th and 18th c. European Sword (Rapier) Blades," 2nd International Conference - Archaeological Metallurgy in Europe 2007 (Associazione Italiana di Metallurgia: Milan, 2009) pp. 282-293 siglum: gener-metallographic-study

Veronika Gervers, “Medieval Garments in the Mediterranean World.” In N.B. Harte and K.G. Ponting (eds.), Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe. Pasold Studies in Textile History 2 (London: Heinemann, 1983) pp. 298-315 {very important diagrams of surviving garments, although their current location and museum number are not always clear} siglum:gervers-medieval-garments

S.M. Giuseppi, “The Wardrobe and Household Accounts of Bogo de Clare, A.D. 1284-6,” Archaeologia Vol. LXX (1920) pp. 1-56 The account book of a rich clerk. This is in the public domain, but this scan is behind a paywall https://doi.org/10.1017/S0261340900011024 siglum: giuseppi-accounts-of-bogo-de-clare

Marcin Glinianowicz, "The Brigandine from the Polish Army Museum in Warsaw - Some Thoughts About its Provenance and Chronology," in Lech Marek (ed.), Weapons bring peace? Warfare in medieval and early modern Europe (Wroclaw, 2013) pp. 157-170 http://wratislavia.archeo.uni.wroc.pl/index.php?sw=181 {on a brigandine probably looted from the Berliner Zeughaus during the Soviet occupation. They want it to date to the late 14th century, the form of the armour and shape of plates is more appropriate for the mid to late 15th century. Per the appendix the armour was covered with tabby-woven vegetable material, most likely flax, with about 10 warp threads and 7-8 weft threads in 1 cm, currently coloured dark brown} siglum: glinianowicz-brigandine-in-warsaw

Matthew Gnagy, The Modern Maker Vol. 1: Men’s 17th Century Doublets (self-published, 2014) ISBN-13 978-0692264843 {for the purposes of this project, use it for the lessons in how to draft a pattern using two or three measurements, and the advice on efficiently making clothing by hand … most of the techniques taught and materials chosen are more applicable to 16th century and later fashions, but Gnagy is a trained suitmaker in a field where most makers are self-taught. See also his revised pattern, which he calls errata sheets (warning: Facebook!)} siglum:gnagy-modern-maker-1

Eunice Rathbone Goddard, Women’s Costume in French Texts of the Eleventh and Twelfth Centuries. The Johns Hopkins Studies in Romance Literatures and Languages Volume VII (Baltimore: John Hopkins University Press, 1927) http://www.1186-583.org/goddard/ (backup on archive.org) siglum:goddard-womens-costume

Matthias Goll, Iron Documents: Interdisciplinary studies on the technology of late medieval European plate armour production between 1350 and 1500. PhD thesis, University of Heidelberg, June 2013. http://archiv.ub.uni-heidelberg.de/volltextserver/17203/ siglum: goll-iron-documents

Gooding, S. James (2011) An Aide Mémoire to Firearms Ignition Identificaion 1400-1900: An Introductory Manual (American Society of Arms Collectors, 2011) https://americansocietyofarmscollectors.org/research-reports-by-asac-members/ siglum: gooding-firearms-ignition

Gorman, Stuart (2016) The Technological Development of the Bow and the Crossbow in the Later Middle Ages. Ph.D. Thesis, Trinity College Dublin. http://hdl.handle.net/2262/77397 siglum:gorman-development-of-the-bow-and-crossbow

Olaf Goubitz, Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800 (Stitchtig Promotie Archeologie: n.p., 2001) ISBN-13 978-90-8932-004-9 siglum: goubitz-stepping-through-time

Olaf Goubitz, Purses in Pieces: Archaeological Finds of Late Medieval and 16th Century Leather Purses, Pouches, Bags and Cases in the Netherlands. 2nd Edition. SPA Uitgevers: 2009. ISBN-13 978-9089320148 {Covers purses, pouches, wallets, bags, and leather cases with a removable lid sliding on cords (etuis) from the Netherlands, with some references to objects as early as the Roman period and as late as the 20th century} siglum:goubitz-purses-in-pieces

Gräf, Julia (2017) “Fighting in women’s clothes: The pictorial evidence of Walpurgis in Ms. I.33.” Acta Periodica Duellatorum, Vol. 5 No. 2 pp. 47-71 https://bop.unibe.ch/apd/article/view/6860 siglum:graef-fighting-in-womens-clothes

Johann Georg Theodor Graesse, Orbis Latinus: Lexikon lateinischer geographischer Namen des Mittelalters und der Neuzeit (1909) This has been digitalized several times including http://www.columbia.edu/acis/ets/Graesse/contents.html and heiMap Orbis Latinus Online https://olo.heimap.uni-heidelberg.de/#

Guillaume le Breton, Philippidos (Begun in 1214-1215) http://remacle.org/bloodwolf/historiens/guillaumelebreton/table.htm https://www.arlima.net/eh/guillaume_le_breton.html

Gunzburg, Darrelyn (2024) "Make and Create: The Craftswomen in the Salone Frescos of the Palazzo della Ragione, Padua." In Cordelia Warr, ed., Medieval Clothing and Textiles 18 (Boydell Press: Woodbridge, Suffolk) pp. 99-127 siglum: gunzburg-make-and-create

Francis Grew and Margarethe de Neergaard, Shoes and Pattens. Second Edition. Medieval Finds from Excavations in London (The Boydell Press: Woodbridge, Suffolk, 2001) siglum:MoL-shoes-and-pattens

Gunn, Steven (2010) "Archery Practice in Early Tudor England." Past & Present, November 2010, No. 209, pp 53-81 Many anecdotes from records of fines and accidental deaths. A Nuremberg city law also objects to the practice of shooting within the town walls with guns or crossbows. siglum: gunn-archery-practice

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Erich Haenel, Kostbare Waffen aus der Dresdner Rüstkammer (Karl W. Hiersemann Verlag: Leipzig, 1923) https://de.wikisource.org/wiki/Kostbare_Waffen_aus_der_Dresdner_R%C3%BCstkammer {with excerpts from the inventories of 1567 and 1606} siglum: haenel-kostbare-waffen

Hall, Bert S. (1997) Weapons and warfare in renaissance Europe: gunpowder, technology, and tactics (Baltimore, MD: Johns Hopkins University Press) {I think this is his classic study of gunpowder in medieval Europe} siglum: hall-weapons-and-warfare

Michael Harbinson, "The lance in the fifteenth century: how French cavalry overcame the English defensive system in the latter part of the Hundred Years War," Journal of Medieval Military History, Vol. 17 pp. 141-200 {cites buttin-arret-de-cuirasse but in English so may be more accessible for some readers} siglum: harbinson-lance-fifteenth-century

Janne Harjula, Sheaths, Scabbards and Grip Coverings: Use of Leather for Portable Personal Objects in 14th-16th Century Turku (SKAS, 2006) ISBN-13 978-9519680149 siglum: harjula-sheaths-scabbards

Adrien Harmand, Jeanne d’Arc, son costume, son armure: essai de reconstitution (Paris: Editions Leroux: Paris, 1929) http://lerozier.free.fr/harmand.htm {many, many modern patterns derive from this obscure book, which also contains the most detailed publication of the cloth-of-gold pourpoint of Charles du Blois} siglum:harmand-jeanne-darc

Egon Harmuth, Die Armbrust: Ein Handbuch (Akadem. Druck.- und Verlagsanst.: Graz, 1975) ISBN-13 3201009334 9783201009331 siglum:harmuth-armbrust

Mary Dormer Harris, ed., The Coventry Leet Book; or Mayor's Register, Containing the Records of the City Court Leet or View of Frankpledge, A.D. 1420-1555, with divers other matters. Early English Text Society, Original Series, No. 134 and 135 (Early English Texts Society: London, 1907, 1908) https://archive.org/details/coventryleetboo00unkngoog/page/244/mode/2up

Albert Hartshorne, “The Sword Belts of the Middle Ages.” The Archaeological Journal 48 (1891) pp. 320-34 https://doi.org/10.5284/10180540 {thanks Harry Maniakis} siglum:hartshorne-sword-belts

Jérôme Hayez / Diana Toccafondi, Palazzo Datini a Prato: una casa fatta per durare mille anni (Firenze: Polistampa, 2012) {includes the Datini inventories} siglum: hayez-toccafondi-palazzo-datini-a-prato

Maria Hayward, Dress at the Court of Henry VIII: The Wardrobe Book of the Wardrobe of the Robes prepared by James Worsley in 1516 ... and his Inventory Prepared on 17 January 1521 ... (Maney Publishing: Leeds, 2007) siglum: hayward-dress-at-the-court-of-henry-viii

Maria Hayward, "Rothwell Jack." In Gale R. Owen-Crocker, Elizabeth Jane Coatsworth, Maria Hayward (eds.), Encyclopedia of Dress and Textiles in the British Isles c. 450-1450 (Leiden / Boston: Brill, 2012) pp. 463-464 siglum:enc-dress-textiles-rothwell-jack

Maria Hayward (ed.), The Great Wardrobe Accounts of Henry VII and Henry VIII (London Record Society, 2012) ISBN-13 9780900952524 {covers the years 1498/1499 and 1510/1511, as well as the section of the 1544 account relating to Henry VIII’s campaign in France} siglum: hayward-great-wardrobe-henry-vii

Nanna Friis Hellström, Anna Vebæk Gelskov, Sofie Louise Andersen, Henriette Lyngstrøm, "Experiments on Painting Viking Age Woodwork," EXARC Journal Issue 2024/1 (2024-02-26) https://exarc.net/ark:/88735/10736 (would have benefitted from reading Theophilius and the 15th century Icelandic treatise on painting sculptures and focusing on techniques which we know were used like scraping and carving wood smooth)

C. M. Helm-Clark, "Medieval Glues Up to 1600 CE," Class Notes - SCA Estrella 23 Collegium, 18 February 2007 http://www.rocks4brains.com/glue.pdf {NB. I don't know of a reference to cheese glue in Pliny or any other pagan writer} siglum: helm-clark-medieval-glues

Emma Louise Herbert-Davies, The Warhorse in England, 1272-1327 (Trivent Publishing, 2025) https://trivent-publishing.eu/home/199-372-the-warhorse-in-england-1272-1327.html

Hermani Contractús Conflictus Ovis et Lini https://archive.org/details/jstor-20648251/page/n7/mode/2up?q=color An interesting debate poem between wool and flax by an abbot who died on Lake Constance in 1054. I am looking at it for what it says about colour and dying of the two types of cloth (and how this Sumerian genre was transmitted to Catholic Europe!). The author is also known as Hermann the Lame or Hermann of Reichenau. #source siglum:conflictus-ovis-et-lini

Constance B. Hieatt, Brenda Hosington, and Sharon Butler, Pleyn Delit: Medieval Cookery for Modern Cooks. Second Edition. University of Toronto Press: Toronto, 1996. #cooking siglum:hieatt-et-al-pleyn-delit

Alexzandra Hildred, (ed.), Weapons of Warre: The Armaments of the Mary Rose, 3 volumes (Mary Rose Trust: Portsmouth, 2011) Finds include eight? steeled targets with guns siglum: hildred-ed-weapons-of-warre

Hodges, Laura F. Chaucer and Costume: The Secular Pilgrims in the 'General Prologue' (Cambridge: D.S. Brewer, 2000) {see also chambers-daunt-eds-london-english - larsdatter-clothing-armour-canterbury-tales - zijlstra-zweens-of-his-array} siglum: hodges-chaucer-and-costume

Ada Bruhn Hoffmeyer, Middelalderens Tvaeggede Svaerd (PhD Dissertation, Copenhagen, 1954) {the pioneering typology of the medieval #sword, unfortunately it was never printed or translated into a world language} siglum: hoffmeyer-svaerd

Randle Holme, The Academy of Armory, or, A Storehouse of Armory and Blazon ... (Chester: 1688) http://name.umdl.umich.edu/A44230.0001.001 siglum: holme-academy-of-armory

Gerhard Folke Wulf Holtmann, Untersuchung zu mittelalterlichen und frühneuzeitlichen Messern. Dissertationsschrift, Fachbereich Historisch-Philologische Wissenschaften, Georg-August-Universität, Göttingen (1994) http://hdl.handle.net/11858/00-1735-0000-000D-F215-B {a study of 1300 knives from the Germanic world with line drawings} siglum: holtmann-zu-messern

Jamie Hood, "A Late Fourteenth-Century Transitional Kettle-Hat Found in London," Arms & Armour, Vol. 9 No. 2, Autumn 2012, pp. 154–180 siglum: hood-kettle-hat-found-in-london

Helen Howard, Pigments of Medieval English Wall Painting (Archetype Publications: London, 2003) siglum: howard-pigments

Christine Howard-Davis (ed.) The Carlisle Millennium Project: Excavations in Carlisle, 1998-2001, Volume 2: The Finds. Oxford Archaeology North: Lancaster, 2009. ISBN 9780904220575 siglum: carlisle-milennium-project-2

Howard Household Books: these letters and expense accounts from late 15th century England have been printed several times:

The Records of the City of Norwich, 2 vols., ed. William Hudson and John Cottingham Tingey (Norwich and London: Jarrold and Sons, 1906) https://archive.org/details/recordsofcityofn01norwuoft/ https://archive.org/details/recordsofcityofn02norwuoft/ Latin, Middle English, and English

Tony Hunt, Teaching and Learning Latin in Thirteenth-Century England. Three volumes (D.S. Brewer: Woodbridge, Suffolk and Rochester, NY, 1991) {an edition of Latin-English and Latin-French glosses} siglum: hunt-teaching-and-learning-latin

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E. Izarn (ed.), Gustave-A. Prevost (intr.), Le Compte des recettes et dépenses du roi de Navarre en France et en Normandie de 1367 à 1370 (Paris: A. Picard, 1885) colour scan with missing edges https://archive.org/details/lecomptedesrece00chargoog and complete B&W scan https://archive.org/details/lecomptedesrece00climgoog/ siglum: izarn-compte-du-roi-de-Navarre

Thomas M. Izbicki, "Nuns' Clothing and Ornaments in English and Northern French Ecclesiastical Regulations." In Gale R. Owen-Crocker and Marien Clegg Hyer (eds.), Refashioning Medieval and Early Modern Dress: A Tribute to Robin Netherton (Boydell Press: Woodbridge, Suffolk) pp. 237-252 siglum: izbicki-nuns-clothing

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J. F., The merchant's ware-house laid open: or, the plain dealing linnen-draper (1696) The EEBO text is full of gaps https://quod.lib.umich.edu/e/eebo2/A85116.0001.001 but I cannot find a scan cp. garsault-art-du-tailleur siglum: plain-dealing-linen-draper

Wolfgang Jahn, Jutta Schumann, Evamaria Brockhoff (eds.), Edel und Frei. Franken im Mittelalter. Veröffentlichungen zur Bayerischen Geschichte und Kultur 47/04 (Augsburg 2004) ISBN 3-927233-91-9 siglum: jahn-et-al-edel-und-frei

Oliver Jessop, "A New Artefact Typology for the Study of Medieval Arrowheads," Medieval Archaeology 40 (1996) pp. 192-205 https://doi.org/10.5284/1071852 {alternative to the Museum of London typology, unfortunately few enthusiasts say which typology they are using} siglum: jessop-typology-for-arrowheads

Caroline Johnson, The King's Servants: Men's Dress at the Accession of Henry VIII. A Tudor Tailor Case Study (Fat Goose Press: Guileford, Surrey, 2009) siglum: johnson-the-kings-servants-i

Caroline Johnson, The Queen's Servants: Gentlewomen's Dress at the Accession of Henry VIII. A Tudor Tailor Case Study. Second Edition (Fat Goose Press: Guileford, Surrey, 2016) siglum: johnson-the-queens-servants-ii

Sophie Jolivet, Pour soi vêtir honnêtement à la cour de monseigneur le duc de Bourgogne, Costume et dispositif vestimentaire à la cour de Philippe le Bon de 1430 à 1455. Unpublished PhD dissertation, Université de Bourgogne, 2003. https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00392310 {I have not read this in full (the focus is too late), but check out the et un garde-corps de cuir de cerf pour vêtir sur son pourpoint à armer on page 242 and similarly on page 271} siglum: jolivet-costume–à-la-cour-de-Philippe-le-Bon

Sophie Jolivet, "The Construction of an Image: Philip the Good in Black (1419-1467)," in Jenny Boulboullé and Sven Dupré, eds., Burgundian Black: Reworking Early Modern Colour Technologies (Santa Barbara: EMC Imprint, 2022) https://doi.org/10.55239/bb001 {adapted from an earlier publication in French} siglum: jolivet-philip-the-good-in-black

David Jones and Emma Herbert-Davies, "Evaluation of Mail Horse-Armour," EXARC (2022), pp. 1-9, DOI: https://exarc.net/ark:/88735/10624 Actualy also considers a lining of layers of upholstry linen, rings are South Asian.

Elizabeth Jones, “Farsetto Construction of the Italian Renaissance (1425-1470)” (2002) http://home.earthlink.net/~lizjones429/farsetto.html {useful Italian and English bibliography on doublets with summary for English speakers, strongest on documents and art and on her own experiences imitating these garments} siglum: jones-farsetto-construction

Heather Rose Jones, “Another Look at St. Louis’ Shirt” (2004) http://heatherrosejones.com/stlouisshirt/ {good suppliment to Burnham’s diagram of the shirt of St. Louis, but now see the study by Tina Anderlini who was allowed to handle the original} siglum: jones-st-louis-shirt

Robert W. Jones, A Cultural History of the Medieval Sword: Power, Piety and Play (Boydell & Brewer: Woodbridge, 2023) siglum: jones-history-of-the-sword

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Katrin Kania, Kleidung im Mittelalter: Materialien – Konstruktion – Nähtechnik: ein Handbuch (Böhlau Verlag: Wien und Köln, 2010) {very strong on surviving clothing and textiles and offers a reasonable way of drafting single and double garments without modern tools like measuring tapes or paper patterns, but not as interested in texts and art or in quilted and stuffed garments} siglum: kania-kleidung-im-mittelalter

Miranda Kaufmann, Black Tudors: The Untold Story (Oneworld Publications, 2017) {On an important topic for living historians, the visible minority of black Africans in Tudor and Stuart England before England became a major player in the slave trade and racialized slavery became an established practice in British colonies siglum: kaufmann-black-tudors

Joel Kaye A History of Balance, 1250–1375 (Cambridge 2014) {R. Warzecha ad nos commendit} siglum: kaye-history-of-balance

Hermann Kellenbenz und Klara von Eyll, eds., Zwei Jahrtausende Kölner Wirtschaft (Greven Verlag: Köln, 1975) {interesting article on brass gauntlets in volume 1} siglum: zwei-jahrtausende-koelner-wirtschaft

Francis M. Kelly, "A Knight's Armour of the Early XIV Century Being the Inventory of Raoul de Nesle," The Burlington Magazine for Connoisseurs, Vol. 6, No. 24 (Mar., 1905), pp. 457-469 (d. 1302 at the Battle of Courtrai) siglum: kelly-armour-raoul-de-nestle

Tasha Dandelion Kelly, The Pourpoint of Charles de Blois: An Adapted Sewing Pattern for Chest Sizes 37-50 (lulu, 2011) https://www.lulu.com/en/us/shop/tasha-kelly/the-pourpoint-of-charles-de-blois/paperback/product-1rg4jw2g.html siglum: kelly-pourpoint-charles-de-blois

Tasha Dandelion Kelly, “The Tailoring of the Pourpoint of King Charles VI of France Revealed.” Waffen- und Kostümkunde, 55. Band Heft 2 (2013) pp. 153-180 http://cottesimple.com/resources/charles-vi-pourpoint/ siglum: kelly-pourpoint-charles-vi

Dave Key, "Mediaeval Cloth: Cloth Types in the Late 15th Century." Dragon: The Voice of the Companie of Saynte George #10 (Summer 2000) pp. 3-9 siglum: key-medieval-cloth

Konrad Keyser, Bellifortis (1405). The oldest complete manuscript is Göttingen, Staats- und Universitätsbibl., 2° Cod. Ms. philos. 64 and has extensive water damage. Bayerisches Staatbibliothek Clm 30150 https://www.digitale-sammlungen.de/en/view/bsb00090291?page=10,11 is intact and digitalized. Several facsimiles and German translations.

Donald King, "Two Medieval Textile Terms: 'draps d'ache,' 'draps de l'arrest'," CIETA Bulletin XXVII (1968), pp. 26-29 https://cieta.fr/bulletin/ siglum: king-two-textile-terms

C. L. Kingsford, "On some London Houses of the Early Tudor Period," Archaeologia, Vol. LXXI (1921) pp. 17-54 {inventory of the goods of Edmund Dudley at Candlewickstreet, London, 1509 as mis-cited in Eaves n. 16} siglum: kingsford-london-houses

Richard Knowles, "A defensive garment in the Church at Rothwell, West Yorkshire," Journal of the Arms and Armour Society, Vol. 11, no. 5 (June 1985), p. 299-305 {on the Rothwell jack} siglum: knowles-defensive-garment

Eberhard König, "How Did Illuminators Draw? Some Fifteenth-Century Examples, Mostly Flemish," Master Drawings, Vol. 41, No. 3, Early Netherlandish Drawings (Autumn, 2003), pp. 216-227 {very focused on the 15th century and on the most skilled and experimental artists; wisely points out that modern ideas about different media were not necessarily period ideas} siglum: koenig-how-did-illuminators-draw

König vom Odenwald, Gedichte. Mittelhochdeutsch-Neuhochdeutsch, mit einer Einleitung zur Klärung der Verfasserfrage, ed. Reinhard Olt (Carl Winter Universitätsverlag: Heidelberg, 1988) siglum: koenig-vom-odenwald-ed-olt

Jan Kohlmorgen, Der mittelalterliche Reiterschild: Historische Entwicklung von 975 bis 1350 und Anleitung zum Bau eines kampftauglichen Schildes (Wald-Michelbach: Karfunkel-Verlag, 2002) https://shop.histofakt.de/product_info.php?products_id=5 {on shields see also beuing-augustyn-eds-schilde - meighan-technical-note - nickel-reiterschild - schmidt-buckler - singer-setztarteschen-des-wiener-zeughauses} siglum: kohlmorgen-mittelalterlicher-ritterschild

Kohout, D., Březinová, H. 2015 "An Assemblage of Medieval Archaeological Textiles from Prague: a Study of Current and Original Colours." In Toim. K. Grömer, F. Pritchard (eds.), Aspects of the Design, Production and Use of Textiles and Clothing from the Bronze Age to the Early Modern Era. NESAT XII. Archaeolingua, vol. 33 (Achaeolingua Alapítvány: Budapest) pp. 331–340 {cited by Rammo as parallel to the textile fragments from London and Tartu} siglum: kohout-brezinova-medieval-textiles-from-prague

Kümin, Beat, and B. Ann Tlusty (eds). The World of the Tavern: Public Houses in Early Modern Europe (Routledge: Aldershot, 2002) siglum: kuemin-tlusty-world-of-the-tavern

Claudia Kusch, Patrizia Mignani, Raffaella Pozzi (eds.), Redire 1427-2009. Ritorno alla luce. Il restauro del Farsetto di Pandolfo III Malatesti. I Quaderni del museo, 2. Museo Civico di Fano: Fano, IT, 2009. http://www.libreriamedievale.com/redire-1427-2009-ritorno-alla-luce-il-restauro-del-farsetto-di-pandolfo-iii-malatesti.html {the conservation report on a doublet from a 15th century tomb in Italy, I ordered a copy from Italy in late 2021 but there is an English summary by Andrea Carloni http://www.companie-of-st-george.ch/cms/?q=en/pandolfo-III-malatestas-funeral-doublet (backed up on the Wayback Machine} siglum: kusch-et-al-farsetto-di-pandolfo-iii-malatesta

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Labarte, Jules (ed.), Inventaire du mobilier de Charles V, roi de France. Collection de Documents Inédits sur l'Histoire de France, Troisième Série, Archéologie (Imprimerie Nationale: Paris, 1879) {dated 1379} siglum: labarte-inventaire-de-charles-v

L.E.S.J. Laborde, Les Ducs de Bourgogne: études sur les lettres, les artes et l’industrie pendant le XVe siècle et plus particulèrement dans le Pays-Bas et le duché de Bourgogne, Seconde Partie, Tome I (Plon Fréres Editeurs: Paris, 1849) http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k164542d/ / https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/006295693 {miscellaneous expenses from the 1380s onwards, note the payment to Christine de Pisan on page 16. There is an index of index of names by profession on p. 523 and an index of names on p. 540} siglum:laborde-ducs-de-bourgogne-2-1

L.E.S.J. Laborde, Les ducs de Bourgogne, études sur les lettres, les arts et l'industrie pendant le XVe siècle et plus particulièrement dans les Pays-Bas et le duché de Bourgogne. Seconde Parte, Tome II (Plon Fréres Editeurs: Paris, 1851) https://archive.org/details/lesducsdebourgo04labogoog/page/n8/mode/2up siglum: laborde-ducs-de-bourgogne-2-2

Catherine Lagier, “La manche de l’Eglise de Bussy-Saint-Martin,” 17 May 2017 http://www.13c.ru/texts/martinsleeve.pdf siglum:lagier-manche-bussy

Catherine Besson-Lagier, “The Sleeve from Bussy-Saint-Martin: A Rare Example of Medieval Quilted Armor,” Medieval Clothing and Textiles, vol. 17 (2023) pp. 28-66 siglum: lagier-sleeve-bussy

Maurice Leloir, “A Mediaeval Doublet.” Apollo: The International Magazine of the Arts Vol. 23 Nr. 135 (March 1936) pp. 157-160 {the most important publication in English on the pourpoint of Charles du Blois, with measurements and a pattern taken off the garment different from the pattern in Harmand} siglum:leloir-mediaeval-doublet

Roberta Orsi Landini, Moda a Firenze e in Toscana nel Trecento (Edizioni Polistampa, 2019) ISBN 9788859620334 (this history of fashion seems to be based on artwork and literature) siglum: ???

Roberta Orsini Landini and Bruna Niccoli, Moda a Firenze 1540-1580: Lo stile di Eleonora di Toledo e la sua influenza (Edizioni Polistampa, 2005) siglum: ???

Eugenio Larosa, "The Inventory of a Sforza man-at-arms," Fama Leonis blog 2020 https://www.famaleonis.com/inventory-sforza-manatarms.asp (transcription of an unpublished inventory of Nicolo Motagnia da Verona from 1452) siglum: larosa-inventory-sforza-man-at-arms

Karen Larsdatter, “References to Clothing and Armor in The Canterbury Tales” http://www.larsdatter.com/chaucer.htm {excellent quick reference to usage in London at the end of the 14th century, which is not always the same as the usage of researchers and reenactors today} siglum:larsdatter-clothing-armour-canterbury-tales

Anne-Kristine Sindvald Larsen, Clothes, Culture and Crafts. Dress and Fashion among Artisans and Small Shopkeepers in the Danish town of Elsinore, 1550-1650 (PhD thesis, School of Arts, Design and Architecture, Aalto University, 2023) https://urn.fi/URN:ISBN:978-952-64-1273-3 Early modern clothing! siglum: larsen-dress-in-elsinore

Manfred Lautenschneider, "Virtues and Vices in Late Medieval Art Productions: The Painter's Progress to Hell," in Erma Hermens and Joyce H. Townsend (eds.), Sources and Serendipity: Testimonies of Artists' Practice (London: Archetype Publications, 2009) pp. 1-7 {on des Teufels Netz / Segi} siglum: lautenschneider-virtues-and-vices

Frédérique Lachaud, "An Aristocratic Wardrobe of the Late Thirteenth Century: The Confiscation of the Goods of Osbert de Spaldington in 1298," Bulletin of the Institute of Historical Research, vol. 67, issue 162 (1994), pp. 91-100 Note: AND cites for E cote e .ij. surcoz e tabar de pers e .ij. chapruns McPherson Library, Main Collection, D1 L65 #inventory siglum: lachaud-goods-osbert-de-spaldington

L. Lacouture, “Formalités des duels et combats judiciares en Guyenne dans les XIIIe or XIIIIe siècles,” Bulletin trimestriel de la société de Borda Dax (Landes) (1914) Deuxieme Trimestre pp. 73-87 https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k102538b/f107.item siglum: lacoutre-combats-judiciares-en-guyenne

John S. Lee, The Medieval Clothier (Boydell, 2018) siglum: lee-medieval-clothier

J. Wickham Legg, "On an Inventory of the Vestry in Westminster Abbey taken in 1388," Archaeologia, or, Miscellaneous Tracts Relating to Antiquity vol. 52 (1890) pp. 195-286 https://archive.org/details/sim_archaeologia-tracts-relating-to-antiquity_1890_52/ {Latin with lots of embroidered vestments and garments blodii coloris eg. page 264 (this may mean blue not bloody)} siglum: legg-inventory-of-westminister-abbey

Ulrich Lehnart, Kleidung & Waffen der Spätgotik, II. 1370-1429 (Wald-Michelbach: Karfunkel Verlag, 2003)

René de Lespinasse (ed.), Les métiers et corporations de la ville de Paris: XIVe-XVIIIe siècles. Vol. I: Ordonnances Générales, Métiers de L’Alimentation https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k5823044k/f8.item siglum: de-lespinasse-métiers-de-paris-1

René de Lespinasse (ed.), Les métiers et corporations de la ville de Paris: XIVe-XVIIIe siècles. Vol. II: Orfèvrerie, sculpture, mercerie, ouvriers en métaux, bâtiment et ameublement https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k55440899/f612.item.texteImage siglum: de-lespinasse-métiers-de-paris-2

René de Lespinasse (ed.), Les métiers et corporations de la ville de Paris: XIVe-XVIIIe siècles. Vol. III: Tissus, étoffes, vêtements, cuirs et peaux, métiers divers (Imprimerie Nationale: Paris, 1886-1897). {Check out tailors pp. 178ff, pourpontiers pp. 205ff, chaussetiers (hosiers) pp. 218ff, friperers (who refurbished and resold old clothes) pp. 421ff} siglum: de-lespinasse-métiers-de-paris-3

Anne Leturque, "Le savoir technique dans l’art de peindre au Moyen Âge: les modes opératoires décrits dans le Liber Diversarum Artium (MS. H277, bibliothèque de l’école de médecine de Montpellier)." Situ [En ligne], vol. 22 (2013) http://journals.openedition.org/insitu/10646 (another article on painting) siglum: leturque-savoir-technique

Manuel Rico y Sinobas, ed., Libros del saber de astronomía del rey D. Alfonso X de Castilla. 5 volumes (Madrid : Tip. de Don Eusebio Aguado, 1863-1867) https://bibliotecadigital.jcyl.es/es/consulta/registro.do?id=13284 siglum: libros-del-saber-ed-rico

Jean Liebel, Springalds and Great Crossbows. Royal Armouries Monograph 5 (1998). Juliet Vale tr. siglum:liebel-springalds-and-great-crossbows

Ronald W. Lightbrown, Medieval European Jewellery: With a Catalogue of the Collection in the Victoria and Albert Museum (Victoria and Albert Publications: 1992) {I have not read this but it is said to be good} siglum:lightbrown-european-jewelry

Rex Lingwood, “John Waterer and the ‘Cuir Bouilli’ Confusion.” https://makersgallery.com/rexlingwood/waterer.html {argues that surviving hardened leather objects from Europe fall into two families produced by two different processes, and that we can’t assume that either existed since time immemorial} siglum:lingwood-cuir-bouilli

Mike Loades, The Crossbow (Osprey Publishing, 2018) ISBN 978-1472824608 siglum: loades-the-crossbow

Gui Alexis de Lobineau, Histoire de Bretagne, 2 volumes (Paris 1707) https://archive.org/stream/b30455194_0002

See column 1205 of volume 2:

A Mery Baydet plumasseur demourant à Tours, pour avoid garni d'or clinquant xxix. jacques de bougrain blanches & noires, xxviii. plumeaux de mesme, pour mettre sur les saldes de partie des gens du Duc qu'il avoit fait armer pour combattre au bouhourdeiux que le Roy faisoit faire le ix. dudut mois à la feste des Roix (list of armour and payments continues)

Pamela O. Long, Openness, Secrecy, Authorship: Technical Arts and the Culture of Knowledge from Antiquity to the Renaissance (John Hopkins University Press: Baltimore and London, 2001)

Emanuele Lugli, "Fashion’s Measure: Preaching, Chronicle-Writing, and the New Look of the 1340s," Fashion Theory, Vol. 25 Issue 2 (2011) pp. 157-193 https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2019.1627758 {very good collection of sources, thesis is interesting if a bit academic} siglum: lugli-fashions-measure

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Jane Malcolm‑Davies, "Structuring reconstructions: recognising the advantages of interdisciplinary data in methodical research," Heritage Science 11:182 (2023) pp. 1-16 https://doi.org/10.1186/s40494-023-00982-9 {experimental and experiential archaeology} siglum: malcolm-davies-structuring-reconstructions

Mander, Nicholas (1997) "Painted Cloths: History, Craftsmen and Techniques," Textile History, Vol. 28 Issue 2, pp. 119-148, DOI: 10.1179/004049697793710941 (sixteenth-century English focus) siglum: mander-painted-cloths

Sir James Gow Mann, The Funeral Achievements of Edward the Black Prince. 3rd ed., rev. London: Clowes, 1951. OCLC 931194576 {this booklet describes the great helm, coat armour, sheath, shield, and gauntlets which were displayed with his tomb in Canterbury Cathedral until they were replaced by replicas in 1954, see also times-of-edward-the-black-prince} siglum: mann-funeral-achievements

Maria Socorro Mantilla de los Rios y Rojas et al., Vestiduras Pontificales del Arzobispo Rodrigo Ximénez de Rada. Siglo XIII: Su Estudio y Restauracion (Madrid: Instituto Conservación y Restauración de Bienes Culturales, 1995) {on a 13th century shirt} siglum: mantilla-de-los-rios-y-rojas-vestiduras-pontificales

Mappae Clavicula: this Latin collection of recipes preserves some very old material and some more recent. Some details were lost as it passed from workers to scribes writing in different languages. siglum: mappae-clavicula

  • There is a translation and commentary in Cyril Stanley Smith and John G. Hawthorne, “Mappae Clavicula: A Little Key to the World of Medieval Techniques,” Transactions of the American Philosophical Society, Vol. 64, No. 4 (1974), pp. 1-128 siglum: mappae-clavicula-tr-smith-hawthorne
  • There is a transcript in Sir Thomas Phillipps, "A transcript of a manuscript treatise on the preparation of pigments, and on various processes of the decorative arts practised during the Middle Ages, written in the twelfth century, and entitled Mappae Clavicula," Archaeologia, vol. XXXII (1847), pp. 183–244 https://archive.org/stream/archaeologiaormi32sociuoft
  • Corning Museum of Glass MS 5 https://www.cmog.org/library/manuscript-mappae-clavicula

Federico Marangoni, XIII secolo. L'abbigliamento maschile (Il Cerchio: Rimini, 2015) 56 pp. ill. ISBN 9788884744036 Part of a series of similar booklets, reviews are difficult to find

Albert Lecoy de la Marche, “Le Bagage d’un étudiant en 1347.” Mémoires de la Société nationale des antiquaires de France (1889) 5e Série 10e Tome ( = Tome 50) pp. 162-182 https://archive.org/details/MemoiresDeLaSocieteNationaleDesAntiquaires50/page/n183 {a student from Paris died suddenly on the road on 6 November 1347, and after one look through his saddlebags they decided to inventory his property very carefully. I have transcribed some of the Latin and French under Sources} siglum:de-la-marche-bagage-dun-étudiant

Sue M. Margeson, Norwich Households: Medieval and Post-Medieval Finds from Norwich Survey Excavations 1971-78. East Anglian Archaeology 58. Norwich Survey: Norwich, 1993. ISBN: 952069504 http://eaareports.org.uk/publication/report58/ {miscellaneous catalogue from a dry site, basic commentary on classes of finds such as aiglets, compare reports on Carlisle, York, London} siglum:margeson-norwich-households

Maureen Fennell Mazzaoui, The Italian Cotton Industry in the Later Middle Ages, 1100-1600 (Cambridge University Press: Cambridge, 1981) ISBN 9780521089609 {essential reading for anyone interested in trecento clothing, especially the raw materials and guild regulations} siglum: mazzaoui-italian-cotton-industry

Katherine A. McIver, Kitchens, Cooking, and Eating in Medieval Italy (Rowman & Littlefield Publishers, 2017) (by a professor emerita of art history) siglum: mciver-kitchens-in-medieval-italy

Joumana Medlej, Inks & Paints of the Middle-East (self-published 2020) {overview of Abbasid recipes for painters and scribes, oriented towards artists} https://majnouna.com/shop/books/ siglum: medlej-inks-and-paints

Meek, Christine (2019) “Regulating and Refashioning Dress: Sumptuary Legislation and Its Enforcement in Fourteenth- and Early fifteenth-Century Lucca.” In Gale R. Owen-Crocker and Marien Clegg Hyer (eds.), Refashioning Medieval and Early Modern Dress: A Tribute to Robin Netherton (Boydell Press: Woodbridge, Suffolk) pp. 211-235 siglum: meek-sumptuary-legislation-lucca

Meighan, Melissa S. (1992) "Appendix: Technical Note." In Jane Watkins (ed.), Studies in European Arms and Armor: The C. Otto von Kienbusch Collection in the Philadelphia Museum of Art (Philadelphia Museum of Art: Philiadelphia, PA, 1992) pp. 143-151 https://archive.org/details/studiesineuropea00phil/page/n5/mode/2up {on the construction of a 16th century Italian rotella shield from Prague, see also uzielli-et-al-laminated-wood-parade-shields} siglum: meighan-technical-note

Merrifield, Mary P. (1849) Original treatises, dating from the XIIth to the XVIIIth centuries, (o)n the arts of painting ... 2 volumes (John Murray: London, 1849; reprinted by Dover Publications as Medieval and Renaissance Treatises on the Arts of Painting: Original Texts with English Translations) https://archive.org/details/originaltreatis00merrgoog/ - https://archive.org/details/originaltreatis01merrgoog {See especially book 7 of the Segreti per Colori aka. Bolognese MS pp. 478ff eg. pp. 490-493 gesso sottile and parchment like stained glass windows, pp. 466-677 "gesso, with which the tailors mark their thread"} siglum: merrifield-on-painting

Gonzalo Menéndez-Pidal, La España del siglo XIII leida en imágenes, Real Academia de la Historia, Madrid, 1986. {covers arms and armour in medieval Iberia with citations to sources} siglum: menendez-pidal-espana-del-siglo-xiii

M. J. de Mendonca, O Loudel do Rei D. Joao I. Lisboa (1973) {Conservation report on same garment described by Teixara 1999. Said to consist of “a few layers of linen with combed wool quilted in between, and it had a green woolen fabric as outer shell.”} siglum: de-mendonca-loudel-do-rei-joao

Paolomarco Merico, Michaela Faccoli, Roberto Giotti, and Giovanna Cornacchia, "Archaeometallurgical Study of a 16th–17th Century 'Rapier' Sword Manufactured in Caino (Northern Italy)," Metallurgical and Materials Transactions B Volume 55b (April 2024) pp. 782-798 https://doi.org/10.1007/s11663-023-02991-2 siglum: merico-et-al-archaeometallurgical-study-caino

Christian Meyer (ed.), Das Stadtbuch von Augsburg, insbesondere das Stadtrecht vom Jahre 1276 (Augsburg: F. Butsch Sohn Verlag, 1872) https://archive.org/details/dasstadtbuchvon00augsgoog/page/n8/mode/2up siglum: meyer-das-stadtbuch-von-augsburg {#lawcode #stadtrecht}

Arkadiusz Michalak et al., “A fourteenth century Baselard from Lake Ostrowite in Northern Poland,” Acta Militaria Mediaevalia XIII (2017) pp. 165-180 https://www.academia.edu/38752660/A_fourteenth_century_Baselard_from_Lake_Ostrowite_in_Northern_Poland {on a quillion dagger with a well-made copper-alloy chape and locket} siglum: michalak-et-al-baselard

Catarina Miguel, Ana Claro, João A. Lopes, and Maria João Melo, "Copper Pigments in Medieval Times: Green, Blue, Greenish-Blue, or Bluish-Green?" in Erma Hermens and Joyce H. Townsend (eds.), Sources and Serendipity: Testimonies of Artists' Practice (London: Archetype Publications, 2009) pp. 33-38 {experiments with green from verdigris} siglum: miguel-et-al-copper-pigments

Moffat, Ralph Dominic (2010) The Medieval Tournament: Chivalry, Heraldry and Reality. An Edition and Analysis of Three Fifteenth-Century Tournament Manuscripts. PhD thesis, University of Leeds https://etheses.whiterose.ac.uk/1430/

Ralph Moffat, Medieval Arms and Armour, a Sourcebook. Volume I: The Fourteenth Century (Woodbridge: Boydell & Brewer, 2022) {new editions and translations of most of the sources in this bibliography and some hitherto unknown texts. Could be even better if he cited earlier editions and noted where his reading differs from their reading, but still the first dedicated collection of medieval texts on arms and armour since Charles ffoulkes in 1913} siglum: moffat-arms-and-armour-sourcebook-i

Ralph Moffat, Medieval Arms and Armour: A Sourcebook. Volume II: 1400-1450 (Boydell & Brewer, 2024) siglum: moffat-arms-and-armour-sourcebook-ii

Ralph Moffat, James Spriggs and Sonia O’Connor, “The use of Baleen for Arms, Armour and Heraldic Crests in Medieval Britain.” The Antiquaries Journal, Volume 88 (September 2008) pp. 207-215 DOI: 10.1017/S0003581500001402 siglum:moffat-et-al-baleen-in-britain {baleen, a keratinous material sometimes misleadingly called whalebone, had a variety of uses in the later middle ages}

Luca Mola, The Silk Industry in Renaissance Venice (Johns Hopkins University Press, 2000) {non vidi set Gregorius Mele condiscipulis comendat, addresses the lower grades of silk cloth as well as the famous patterned weaves, satins, and velvets won by the richest} siglum: mola-silk-industry-venice

Michel Mollat (ed.), Comptes généraux de l’Etat bourguignon entre 1416 et 1420 (Paris: Imprimerie nationale/Libraire C. Klincksieck, 1965-1966). {the prèmier partie (1965) page 197 is said to talk about pourpoints stuffed with cotton} siglum: mollat-comptes-generaux

Monnas, Lisa (1989) “Silk Cloths Purchased for the Great Wardrobe of the Kings of England, 1325-1462.” Textile History, Vol. 20 No. 2, pp. 283-307 {useful comments on the meaning of different terms in these unpublished texts} siglum: monnas-silk-cloths-england

Monnas, Lisa (2008) Merchants, Princes, and Painters: Silk Fabrics in Italian and Northern Paintings, 1300-1500 siglum: monnas-silk-fabrics-in-paintings

Lisa Monnas, "Embroideries for Edward III." In M. A. Michael (ed.), The Age of Opus Anglicanum. Harvey Miller Publications, 2016 pp. 36-73. ISBN: 978-1-909400-41-2 NON VIDI said to have information from the unpublished Great Wardrobe Accounts. siglum: monnas-embroideries-edward-III

Enguerrand de Monstrelet, La chronique d'Enguerran de Monstrelet: en deux livres, avec pièces justificatives. Louis Douët d’Arcq ed. Six volumes. (Paris: Mme. Ve Jules Renouard, 1857) https://archive.org/details/lachroniquedengu01mons/ - https://archive.org/details/lachroniquedengu03mons/ - https://archive.org/details/lachroniquedengu04mons siglum: monstrelet-chronique-ed-douet-darcq

Giovanni Monticolo (ed.), I capitolari delle arti veneziane: sottoposte alla giustizia e poi alla giustizia vecchia dalle origini al MCCCXXX vol. 1 (Roma: Tipografo del Senato, 1896) #documents #regulations https://archive.org/details/icapitolaridell04bestgoog/page/n107 {the rules of the zuparii "doublet-makers, pourpointiers" of Venice from 1219 onwards, plus the sartores “tailors,” balistarii “crossbow-makers”, dyers, etc.; the scan on Google Books is not usable} siglum: monticolo-capitolari-veneziane

Giovanni Monticolo (ed.), I capitolari delle arti veneziane: sottoposte alla giustizia e poi alla giustizia vecchia dalle origini al MCCCXXX vol. 2 in two parts (Roma: Tipografo del Senato, 1905) #documents #regulations vol. 2 pt. 1 and https://archive.org/details/icapitolaridell02bestgoog/ {rules of the pictores "painters" etc. of Venice} siglum: monticolo-capitolari-veneziane-ii

H. Moranvillé, Inventaire de L'Orfèvrerie et de Joyaux de Louis I, Duc d'Anjou. Premier fascicule (Ernest Leroux: Paris, 1903) https://archive.org/details/inventairedelorf01loui {the titular Duke died in 1384, the inventory covers goldsmith's work and silversmith's work not gold embroidery (orphery)} siglum: moranville-inventaire-de-louis-d-anjou-i

H. Moranvillé, Inventaire de L'Orfèvrerie et de Joyaux de Louis I, Duc d'Anjou. Deuxième fascicule (Ernest Leroux: Paris, 1904) https://archive.org/details/inventairedelorf02loui and https://archive.org/details/inventairedelorf03loui/ siglum: moranville-inventaire-de-louis-d-anjou-ii

Quita Mould, Ian Carlisle, and Esther Cameron (eds.) Leather and Leatherworking in Anglo-Scandinavian and Medieval York. The Archaeology of York, Volume 17 The Small Finds, Fasc. 16 Craft, Industry, and Everyday Life. York Archaeological Trust: Walmgate, York, 2003. http://www.yorkarchaeology.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/AY17-16-Leather-and-leatherworking.pdf {sword sheaths are mostly before this period but show the development and the stitching is well described} siglum: mould-et-al-leather-and-leatherworking-in-york

Muhlberger, Steven (ed. and tr.), Royal Jousts at the End of the Fourteenth Century. Deeds of Arms Volume 1 (Freelance Academy Press: Wheaton, IL, 2012) siglum: muhlberger-ed-royal-jousts

Axel E. W. Müller, Gunpowder Technology in the Fifteenth Century: A Study, Edition and Translation of the Firework Book (Boydell & Brewer, January 2024) https://boydellandbrewer.com/9781783277315/gunpowder-technology-in-the-fifteenth-century/

Müller, Karl Otto. Nördlinger Stadtrechte des Mittelalters. Munich, 1933. NON VIDI NON NUMERALIZATUS

Eugène Müntz, Les collections des Médicis au Quinzieme Siècle: le musée - la bibliothèque - le mobilier (Jules Rouam and Gilert Wood & Co.: Paris and London, 1888) https://archive.org/details/lescollectionsd00mngoog/ {lots of clothing, arms, and armour with brief descriptions including some giuberelli} siglum: muentz-collections-des-medicis

John H. Munro, “The anti-red shift– to the ‘Dark Side’: Colour changes in Flemish luxury woollens, 1300 – 1550.” Medieval Clothing and Textiles, Vol. 3, No. 1 (2007) pp. 55-98 https://mpra.ub.uni-muenchen.de/id/eprint/10876 {study of the colours of cloth purchased by Flemish towns based on exhaustive archival research … I wish he made the basis for his statements about the width of cloths and length of different yards and ells clearer, but this reflects 40 years of thought and research and he was very generous to make it available for free before his death in 2013. Notably, he rejects the idea that black cloth was expensive: in the archives he has read, the expensive colours were ‘scarlet’ and ‘in grain’ and the various blacks, browns, violets, blues, greens, and reds all had prices which were statistically indistinguishable from one another. You can get a sense for the kind of person he was on his faculty page https://economics.utoronto.ca/munro5/} siglum: munro-anti-red-shift

John H. Munro, “The Medieval Scarlet and the Economics of Sartorial Splendour.” This was first published in a Gedenkschrift, namely N.B. Harte and K.G. Ponting (eds.), Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe: Essays in Honour of Professor E.M. Carus-Wilson (Pasold Studies in Textile History 2) (Heinemann Educational Books: London, 1983) pp. 13-70 and reprinted in his collected articles (Textiles, Towns, and Trade: Ashgate Publishing Ltd., Aldershot UK, 1994) {the standard article on the highest-quality woolen cloth known as scarlet, and its relationship to cloth dyed in grain (with kermes)} siglum: munro-medieval-scarlet

Maria Giuseppina Muzzarelli, Guardaroba Medievale: Vesti e Società del XIII al XVI Secolo (Il Mulino: Bologna, 1999) siglum: muzzarelli-guardaroba-medievale

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Kristen Brooke Neuschel, Living by the Sword: Weapons and Material Culture in France and Britain, 600–1600 (Cornell University Press, 2020) non vidi, Bret Devereaux ad lectores commendat siglum: neuschel-living-by-the-sword

Helmut Nickel, Der mittelalterliche reiterschild des Abendlandes, PhD thesis Berlin 1958 {said to be the basis of kohlmorgen-mittelalterlicher-ritterschild} siglum: nickel-reiterschild

Nickel, Helmut (1995) "The Seven Shields of Behaim: New Evidence," Metropolitan Museum Journal, vol. 30 (1995) https://www.metmuseum.org/art/metpublications/ {see also faltermeier-meyer-restoration-behaim-shields} siglum: nickel-seven-shields-of-behaim

Sir Nicholas Harris Nicolas, Privy purse expenses of Elizabeth of York: wardrobe accounts of Edward the Fourth. With a memoir of Elizabeth of York, and notes (London: W. Pickering, 1830) https://archive.org/details/privypurseexpens00nicouoft/ siglum: nicolas-elizabeth-of-york-and-edward-iv

Sir Nicholas Harris Nicolas, “Observations on the Institution of the Most Noble Order of the Garter.” Archaeologia: or, Miscellaneous tracts Relating to Antiquity xxi (1846) pp. 1-163 https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=umn.31951d00576448c;view=1up;seq=12 {for the past 200 years, professional scholars have been telling each other that someone should really publish and analyze more of these. Until then, this article and Stella Mary Newton’s book is what we have for my period} siglum: nicolas-order-of-the-garter

Stella Mary Newton, Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince: A Study of the Years 1340 to 1365 (several printings, most recently Boydell Press 2012) {the work of a self-educated dress historian at the end of a long career, this book is especially strong on how people reacted to the new fashions of this period, but some of the details can be quibbled with; she summarizes many unpublished sources in English} siglum: newton-fashion-black-prince

Netherton, Robin (????) “The View from Herjolfsnes: Greenland’s Translation of the European Fitted Fashion.” Medieval Clothing and Textiles 4 siglum: netherton-view-from-herjolfsnes

David Nicolle, The Military Technology of Classical Islam, PhD Thesis, University of Edinburgh, 1982 http://hdl.handle.net/1842/7432 siglum: nicolle-medieval-technology-islam

David Nicolle, Crusader Warfare, Volume 1: Byzantium, Europe and the Struggle for the Holy Land 1050-1300 AD (Hambledon Continuum: London, and New York, 2007) siglum: nicolle-crusader-warfare-i

David Nicolle, Medieval Warfare Sourcebook, 2 volumes (Brockhampton Press, 1995) siglum: nicolle-medieval-warfare-sourcebook

Nockert, Margareta (1985) Bockstensmannen och Hans Dräkt (“The Bocksten Man and His Clothing”) (Stiftelsen Hallands länsmuseer, Halmstad och Varberg: Falkenberg, Sweden) {the essential source on this murder victim who would have been in fashion in the early 14th century. Everyone who re-draws these changes something and leaves out some of the numbers} siglum: nockert-bockstensmannen

A.V.B Norman, The Rapier and Small-Sword, 1460-1820 (Arms and Armour Press, Lionel Leventhal Limited: London, 1980) {covers sword hilts and scabbards, but not blades} siglum: norman-rapier-and-small-sword

A.V.B. Norman, The Rapier and Small-Sword, 1460-1820 (Ken Trotman Publishing, 2019) https://kentrotman.co.uk/newbooks/the-rapier-and-the-small-sword-1460-1820/ {Mostly a reprint, but has Norman's handwritten corrections to the index} siglum: norman-rapier-and-small-sword-trotman

Nutz, Beatrice (n.d.) Transcriptions of various sumptuary laws (Kleiderordnungen) ranging from 13th and 14th century Nürnberg to Maximillian’s law of 1518 siglum: nutz-kleiderordnungen

Beatrice Nutz, “Jagdkleidung Kaiser Maximilian I. / Hunting garments of Emperor Maximilian I” (2019) https://www.academia.edu/38408610/Hunting_clothes_of_Emperor_Maximilian_I.pdf {edition and translation of a manuscript on hunting by emperor Maximillian from 1508, partilly in his own hand} siglum: nutz-jagdkleidung-kaiser-maxilian

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R. Ewart Oakeshott, "A fifteenth-century 'royal' sword preserved in Westminister Abbey library," The Connoisseur, vol. 129 (April 1952) pp. 104-108 {(}on the so-called sword of Henry V from Westminister Abbey, cp. woosnam-savage-sword-henry-v and Records of the Medieval Sword pp. 172, 173} siglum: oakeshott-royal-sword-westminister

Ewart Oakeshott, The Archaeology of Weapons siglum: oakeshott-archaeology-of-weapons

Ewart Oakeshott, The Sword in the Age of Chivalry (ed. pr. 1964, second edition The Boydell Press: Woodbridge, 1994) {probably the best introduction to the late medieval #sword in English, very clear on his famous typology and its limits} siglum:oakeshott-sword-age-chivalry

Ewart Oakeshott, Records of the Medieval Sword (The Boydell Press, 1991) siglum:oakeshott-records-medieval-sword

António Conduto Oliveira, "The Elusive Musekin—Interpreting a Mysterious Piece of Medieval Armour," Arms & Armour, Vol. 20 (2023) pp. 54-73 DOI: 10.1080/17416124.2023.2189871 siglum: oliveira-elusive-musekin

António Conduto Oliveira and Peter Alan Kalkman, Un tesoro desconocido: el bacinete de Pinhel, Gladius, vol. 45, no. 426. https://doi.org/10.3989/gladius.2025.426 siglum: oliveira-kalkman-bacinete-de-Pinhel

Origo, Iris (1957) The Merchant of Prato: Francesco di Marco Datini (Cape: London) {available in most major languages} siglum:origo-merchant-of-prato

W. Mark Ormrod, Winner and Waster and its Contexts: Chivalry, Law and Economics in Fourteenth-Century England (Boydell & Brewer: 2024) A treatise on political economy from the 1350s or 1360s siglum: ormrod-winner-and-waster

Else Østergård, Woven into the Earth: Textile finds in Norse Greenland {to be read with Medieval Garments Reconstructed} siglum:woven-into-the-earth

Patrick Ottaway and Nicola Rogers, Craft, Industry and Everyday Life: Finds from Medieval York. The Archaeology of York, Volume 17 The Small Finds, Fasc. 15 (Council for British Archaeology, 2002) http://www.yorkarchaeology.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/AY17-15-Medieval-Finds-from-York.pdf {Locks and keys, scissors and shears, knives, firesteels (“strike-a-lights”), ceramics and glassware, little metal mounts for leatherwork …} siglum:ottaway-rogers-ay-17-15

Gale R. Owen-Crocker, Elizabeth Jane Coatsworth, Maria Hayward (eds.), Encyclopedia of Dress and Textiles in the British Isles c. 450-1450 (Leiden / Boston: Brill, 2012) {Useful entries on Aketon, Doublet, Gambeson, Jack, Pourpoint, etc. with some unpublished or very obscure lists of materials, and on weights, measures, and types of fabric} siglum:encyclopedia-of-dress-and-textiles

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Milan Pajic, Flemish Textile Workers in England, 1331–1400: Immigration, Integration and Economic Development (Cambridge University Press, 2023) https://www.cambridge.org/core/books/flemish-textile-workers-in-england-13311400/B5743FD74321FF65A2170B252C423841

Viktor Hugo Palander-Suolahti, Der franzözische Einfluss auf die deutsche Sprache im zwölften Jahrhundert. Mémoires de la Société néophilologique de Helsinki III (Helsingfors, 1902) {see also under Suolahti and Rosenqvist} siglum: palander-suolahti-franzoezische-einfluss

Paston Letters: these letters from a family of gentry in late 15th century Norfolk have information on social history and the things they bought and sold and fought in. An old edition is available on Project Gutenberg, a newer edition is Norman Davis (ed.) (1971). The Paston Letters and Papers of the Fifteenth Century, Part I. Oxford: Clarendon Press. siglum: paston-letters

Paulerinus (Pavel Žídek) Liber viginti artium (c. 1455-1471): This Latin encyclopedia with Czech glosses includes a description of 223 professions including pavise-makers. There are several partial editions (thanks to Atelier Vincent de Beauvais for the list). Unfortunately, many of the words in the section on tailoring are in the editor's list of words she could not find in any other Latin text.

Oskar Pausch, Das älteste italienisch-deutsche Sprachbuch: Eine Überlieferung aus dem Jahre 1424 nach Georg von Nürnberg (Böhlau Verlag: Vienna, 1972) = Georg von Nürnberg's German-Italian phrasebook from 1424 {Ariella Elema recommends, has entries like: la spada darme = daz bapen swert 'the arming sword'; la spada da scrimier = daz schirm swert 'the fencing sword'; la spada da doman = der paiden henter 'the two-handed sword'; la spada da chavallo = daz raisswert 'the riding/travelling sword'} siglum: pausch-sprachbuch

Kathrine Vestergard Pedersen, Marie-Louise Nosch (eds.), The Medieval Broadcloth: Changing Trends in Fashions, Manufacturing and Consumption (Oxbow Books, 2009) siglum: pedersen-nosch-eds-medieval-broadcloth

Harold L. Peterson, Daggers & Fighting Knives of the Western World: from the Stone Age to 1900 (Bonanza Books: New York, 1968) siglum: peterson-daggers-and-fighting-knives {a thoughtful hobbyist's book with lots of B&W photos and simple typologies but no measurements. Peterson had read a lot of research literature but does not cite it. Very influential on people interested in medieval and early modern edged weapons today}

Ingo Petri, "Vier VLFBERHT-Schwerter aus der Sammlung des Museums für Vor- und Frühgeschichte, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin," Acta Praehistorica et Archaeologica 49 (2017) pp. 137-179 academia.edu c/o Roland Warzecha #viking #sword siglum: petri-vier-ulfberht-schwerter

Elisabeth Pfeiffer, Ellen und ihre Vergleichungen (St. Katharninen Scripta: 1990) OCLC 243447238 {cp. Zupko, I have never been at a library which had this} siglum: pfeiffer-ellen

Ernest Petit, Les itinéraires de Philippe le Hardi et de Jean sans Peur, ducs de Bourgogne (1363-1419) (Paris: Imprimerie Nationale, 1888) https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k35098b siglum: petit-itineraires

Phoenix, Daniel. “‘Garments so Chequered’: The Bible of Cîteaux, the Bayeux Tapestry and the Vair Pattern.” The Antiquaries Journal 90 (2010) pp. 195–210 https://doi.org/10.1017/S0003581509990448 Argues that the checkered garments worn by Duke William and two other figures on the Bayeaux tapestries are vair cotes, cp. a twelfth-century painting of Boethius siglum: phoenix-garments-so-checkered

Caroline Piel and Isabelle Bédat, "La manche de saint Martin à Bussy-Saint-Martin (Seine-et-Marne)," Coré 2 (mars 1997), pp. 38-43 http://www.13c.ru/texts/martinsleeve.pdf siglum: piel-bedat-la-manche-de-saint-martin

Lauren Piper (2019) "Tailored for Combat: The Conservation of an Elizabethan Jack of Plate," Arms & Armour, 16:2, pp. 196-218, DOI: 10.1080/17416124.2019.1662992 siglum: piper-tailored-for-combat

Rosita Levi Pisetzky, Storia del Costume in Italia, 5 volumi (Istituto Editoriale Italiano {Treccani}, 1974/1975) {the standard reference on written, carved, and painted source, if you are serious about this subject and can read Italian you need to borrow this. It has probably 80% of the artwork which floats around the Internet today (and some art which most people interested in medieval clothing do not know) and a mass of quotes from contemporary documents and literature, and it treats specific places and times in depth rather than dancing over 500 years in 250 pages. It was reprinted in 2005 by the Istituto della Enciclopedia Italiana, Rome. For a table of contents see https://trama-e-ordito.blogspot.co.at/2016/04/storia-del-costume-in-italia-di-rosita.html. Volume 2 covers the 1300s and the 1400s} siglum: levi-pisetzky-storia-del-costume

Christine de Pizan, The Book of Deeds of Arms and of Chivalry. Edited by Charity Cannon Willard, and translated by Sumner Willard (Penn State University Press, 1999) {The Livre des fais d'armes et de chevalerie} siglum: de-pizan-livre-des-faites-darmes-tr-willard

Ploss, E. (1989) Ein Buch von alter Farben – Technologie der Textilfarben im Mittelalter, München, 1967 (6e édition, München, 1989).

Portoghesi, Lucia. "L'abbigliamento funebre di Diego Cavaniglia: come spunto per un'analisi del vestire quattrocentesco." Ars Historiae Oct/Dec 2006 pp. 58-63 https://www.cians.info/media/L-abbigliamento-funebre-di-Diego-Cavaniglia.pdf siglum: portoghesi-abbigliamento-funebre-di-diego-cavaniglia

“Prenegard, prenegard, Thus bere I myn baselard” https://archive.org/details/songscarolsfromm00wrigrich/page/84/mode/2up siglum:prenegard-prenegard

Giacomo di Prampero, "Inventario del castello di Osoppo (1412)" and "Inventario degli oggetti esistenti nel castello di Gemona (1390)" Memorie storiche forogiuliesi 9 (1913) pp. 133-137 siglum: di-prampero-inventarii-delli-castelli

Bernard and Henri Prost, Inventaires, mobiliers et extraits des comptes des ducs de Bourgogne de la maisson de Valois, 1363-1477, 2 vols (Paris: Ernest Leroux Editeur, 1902 and 1913) https://archive.org/stream/inventairesmobi00prosgoog or https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k63257451.r {digitized volume covers the years 1378-1390, the other volume covers 1363-1377. That volume is mostly available in France (OCLC 491372399 and OCLC 492126270) but there is one in the British Library (OCLC 59821093) and one in the Bayerische Staatsbibliothek (OCLC 162859701)}

siglum: prost-inventaires-des-ducs-de-bourgogne

Michael Prestwitch, “Edward I’s armies,” Journal of Medieval History 37 (2011) pp. 233-244

Prestwich, Michael (1980) The three Edwards: war and state in England, 1272-1377 More good anecdotes about the things that got Shakespeare and Sir John Smythe upset under Edward I

Purton, Peter (2006) "The myth of the mangonel: torsion artillery in the Middle Ages," Arms & Armour, Vol. 3, No. 1, pp. 79-90 siglum: purton-myth-of-the-mangonel

Peter Purton, A History of the Early Medieval Siege, c.450–1200 (Woodbridge, Suffolk: The Boydell Press, 2010) siglum: purton-early-medieval-siege

Peter Purton, A History of the Late Medieval Siege, 1200–1500 (Woodbridge, Suffolk: The Boydell Press, 2010) siglum: purton-late-medieval-siege

Stuart W. Pyhrr and José-A. Godoy, with appendix by Silvio Leydi, Heroic Armour of the Italian Renaissance: Filippo Negroli and his Contemporaries (The Metropolitan Museum of Art: New York, 1998) https://www.metmuseum.org/art/metpublications/ siglum: pyhrr-godoy-heroic-armour

Pyhrr, Stuart W., Donald J. LaRocca, and Dirk H. Breiding (2005) The Armored Horse in Europe, 1480–1620 (The Metropolitan Museum of Art) https://www.metmuseum.org/art/metpublications/The_Armored_Horse_in_Europe_1480_1620

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Model bibliography entry siglum:an-id

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Riina Rammo, Textile Finds from Medieval Cesspits in Tartu: Technology, Trade and Consumption (PhD thesis, University of Tartu, 2015) http://dspace.ut.ee/handle/10062/49523 siglum: rammo-textile-finds-from-tartu {many striped woolen cloths (rays), but often refers readers to hard-to-find articles for details. There is a handy collection of photos on Tekijä Mervi's blog Hibernaatiopesäke}

Riina Rammo, "Ambiguous stripes – a sign for fashionable wear in medieval Tartu," in Gitte Hansen, Steven P. Ashby and Irene Baug (eds.), Everyday Products in the Middle Ages: Crafts, Consumption and the Individual in Northern Europe, c. AD 800-1600 (Oxford and Philadelphia: Oxbow Books, 2015) pp. 175-191 rammo-ambiguous-stripes

Rammo, R. 2012 "Fragments of clothing from medieval Tartu (Estonia)." In A. Haak & R. Rammo. (eds.), Medieval Urban Textiles in Northern Europe. Muinasaja teadus vol. 22. Tarto University: Tartu, pp. 125–146. ISBN-13 978-9985-9877-8-0

Hastings Rashdall, The Universities of Europe in the Middle Ages, 2 volumes (Oxford: The Clarendon Press, 1895) https://archive.org/details/universitieseur00unkngoog/ https://archive.org/details/universitiesofeu02hast/ NON LEGI siglum: ???

Rast-Eicher, Antoinette, Tidow, Klaus 2011. "Mühlberg Ensemble. Die Textilien." In Rainer Atzbach, Ingolf Ericsson (eds.), Die Ausgrabungen im Mühlberg-Ensemble, Kempten (Allgäu). Metall, Holz, Textil (Dr. Rudolf Habelt GMBH, Bonn) pp. 285–351 ISBN 9783774937567 {cited by Rammo as parallel to the textile fragments from Tartu- there is a table of contents with beautiful closeup photos at http://atzbach.heimat.eu/data/BSAMN3.pdf} siglum: rast-eicher-tidow-muehlberg-textilien

Carsten Rau, European Arrowheads and Crossbow Bolts: From the Bronze Age to the Late Middle Ages (CreateSpace, 2017) non vidi

M. Raynouard, Lexique Roman ou Dictionnaire de la Langue des Troubadours, comparée avec les autres Langues de l’Europe Latine. Many volumes (Silvestre Libraire: Paris) siglum: raynouard-lexique-roman

Reed, Paul (2020) "The Knowledge of Carpenters from the Early Medieval Period to the Eighteenth Century in Setting Out Roofs and Buildings Without Geometry and Numerical Measurement." Vernacular Architecture, Vol. 51, Nr. 1, pp. 30–49. doi:10.1080/03055477.2020.18306 {a handy article on how proportional drafting can be applied to architecture (make a beam 9/16 as long as another beam, not a certain number of absolute units long)} siglum: reed-knowledge-of-carpenters

Reed, Ronald (1972) Ancient Skins, Parchments, and Leathers (Seminar Press: London and New York) https://archive.org/details/ancientskinsparc0000reed/ {a classic study with translations of many unpublished texts} siglum: reed-skins-parchments-leathers

Susan D. Reed, From Chaperone to Chaplets: Aspects of Men's Headdress, 1400–1519 (Master of Science thesis, University of Maryland, College Park, 1992) https://www.academia.edu/43442711/From_Chaperone_to_Chaplets_Aspects_of_Mens_Headdress_1400_1519 siglum: reed-chaperone-to-chaplets

Susan D. Reed, “15th-Century Men’s Doublets: An Overview” (1994, 2004) http://www.nachtanz.org/SReed/doublets.html {very important bibliography for the 15th century, the list of artwork is a good starting point} siglum:reed-mens-doublets

W. E. Rhodes, “The Inventory of the Jewels and Wardrobe of Queen Isabella (1307-8).” English Historical Review 12 (1897) pp. 517-521 siglum: rhodes-wardrobe-queen-isabella

Roland Thomas Richardson, The Medieval Inventories of the Tower of London, 1320-1410 (PhD thesis, University of York, 2012) http://etheses.whiterose.ac.uk/3919/ siglum:richardson-medieval-inventories

Thom Richardson, The Tower Armoury in the Fourteenth Century (The Royal Armouries, 2018) siglum:richardson-tower-armoury

Richardson, Thom (2015) "Armour in Henry V’s Great Wardrobe," Arms & Armour, Vol. 12 No. 1, pp. 22-29 siglum: richardson-armour-henry-v

Holger Richter, Die Hornbogenarmbrust: Geschichte und Technik. 2nd edition (Hörnig-Verlag: Wiesbaden, 2012) siglum: richter-hornbogenarmbrust

Marloes Rijkelijkhuizen and Marquita Volken, "A poor man’s armour? Late medieval leather armour from excavations in the Netherlands." In Quita Mould (ed.), Leather in Warfare: Attack, Defence and the Unexpected (Leeds: Royal Armouries Museum, 2017) pp. 57-77

Ansgar Reiß and Tobias Schönauer, Plattenrock, Buckler & Conquistador – Aus der Schatzkammer des Bayerischen Armeemuseums (Bayerisches Armeemuseum, Ingolstadt, 2021) ISBN-13 978-3-96049-090-6 free pdf and printer's online store {article on a pair of Panzerhose and a pair of plates from Bavaria, thanks Roland Warzecha; an English translation is in progress}

Henry Thomas Riley, Memorials of London and London Life in the XIIIth, XIVth and XVth Centuries (London: Longmans, Green, and Co. 1868) https://archive.org/details/b2485881x/ https://www.british-history.ac.uk/no-series/memorials-london-life siglum: riley-memorials-of-london

Fabien Roucole, Prélats et hommes de guerre dans la France du XVe siècle (Presses Universitaires de Provence: Aix-en-Provence, 2020) https://books.openedition.org/pup/47418 NON VIDI cites things I have cited

Emil Franz Rössler (ed.), Das Altprager Stadtrecht aus dem XIV. Jh. Deutsche Rechtsdenkmäler aus Böhmen und Mähren, Band 1 (Prag: J.G. Calve'sche Buchhandlung, 1845) https://archive.org/details/deutscherechtsde01rs/ siglum:roessler-altprager-stadtrecht

Arvid Rosenqvist, Der franzözische Einfluss auf die mittelhochdeutche Sprache in der 2. Hälfte des XIV. Jahrhunderts. Mémoires de la Société néophilologique de Helsinki XIV (Helsinki: Société Néophilologique, 1943)

Arvid Rosenqvist, Der französische Einfluss auf die mittelhochdeutsche Sprache in der ersten Hälfte des XIV. Jahrhunderts. Mémoires de la Société néophilologique de Helsinki IX (Helsinki: Société Néophilologique, 1932)

Ross, D.J.A. "The Prince Answers Back, 'Les Enseignemens de Théodore Paliologue,'" in Christopher Harper-Bill and Ruth Harvey, eds., The Ideals and Practice of Medieval Knighthood. Papers from the First and Second Strawberry Hill Conferences (Bury St. Edmunds: Boydell Press, 1986) pp. 165-177 Mearns CR4513 I34

Daniel Rosen, "“Cast Over a Doublet”: A Military-Style Jerkin," Metropolitan Museum Journal, vol. 60 (2025) pp. 125-136 siglum: rosen-military-style-jerkin

Johannes Rothe, Der Ritterspiegel. Edited, translated and commented by Christoph Huber and Pamela Kalnig (Walter de Gruyter: Berlin 2009) https://archive.org/details/rothe-johannes-der-ritterspiegel-walter-de-gruyter-2009/ {an adaptation of Vegetius including a description of polished armour found by Blaz Berlec in 2021} siglum: rothe-ritterspiegel-huger-kalnig

Nina Rowe, The Jew, the cathedral and the medieval city: Synagoga and Ecclesia in the thirteenth century (Cambridge and New York: Cambridge University Press, 2011) siglum: rowe-synagoga-and-ecclesia

Otto Rüdiger, Die ältesten Hamburgischen Zunftrollen und Brüderschaftsstatuten (Kellinghusen's Stiftung: Hamburg, 1874) https://archive.org/details/dieltestenhambu00hambgoog/ {guild rules}

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Franco Sacchetti, Novelle (Italy, before 1400). Collection of 256 (originally 300) short stories with a moral at the end. siglum: sacchetti-novelle

Luciano Salvatici (ed.), Posate, Pugnali, Coltelli da Caccia del Museo Nazionale del Bargello. Museo Nazionale del Bargello: Florence, 1999. ISBN 88 7242 285X. {half a dozen relevant knives and daggers with one B&W photo and a paragraph of text apiece} siglum: salvatici-posate-pugnali-coltelli

Salzman, Louis Francis (1953) "The property of the earl of Arundel, 1397," Sussex archaeological collections, vol. 91 pp. 32-52 https://doi.org/10.5284/1085630 siglum: salzman-earl-of-arundel

Barbara Santich, The Original Mediterranean Cuisine: Medieval Recipes for Today. Second Edition (Equinox Publishing, 2018) {whereas The Forme of Cury and Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books contain English recipes, this draws on manuscripts from Catalonia and Italy; she gives the original text, a translation, and her own recipe inspired by it #cooking #kitchen} siglum: santich-original-mediterranean-cuisine

Ferdinando Sartini (ed.) Statuti dell’arte dei rigattieri e linaioli di Firenze (1296-1340). Regia Deputazione di Storia Partia per la Toscana, Fonti e studi sule corporazione artigiane del medio evo, II (Florence: Felice le Monnier, ed., 1940) #documents #regulations {the riggatieri repaired and resold used goods and made new quilted clothing (they combined the roles of fripperers and junk-dealers in England and France); their rule is not as useful as the French rules, but is in easy notarial Latin, and the publication date may explain why the index only covers the first 1/3 of the alphabet} siglum: sartini-statuti-dellarte

Mario Scalini, „Note sulla Formazione dell'Armatura di Piastra in Italia (c. 1380-c. 1420),“ Waffen- und Kostümkunde 22 (1980) pp. 15-26 {the oldest evidence for asymetric pauldrons}

Schmidt, Herbert (2015) The Book of the Buckler (Wyvern Media) ISBN-13 978-0-9929918-3-8 https://wyvernmedia.co.uk/shop/The-Book-of-the-Buckler-p59280341 siglum: schmidt-buckler

Schmidt, Herbert / Warming, Rolf (2022) The Medieval and Renaissance Buckler (sofa-books) ISBN-13 978-3951981772 {basically an extended second edition of schmidt-buckler} siglum: schmidt-medieval-and-renassance-buckler

Wolfram Schmitt, Deutsche Fachprosa des Mittelalters. Kleine Texte für Vorlesungen und Übungen 190 (Walter de Gruyter: New York, 1972) siglum: schmitt-deutsche-fachprosa

Christiane Schnack. Mittelalterliche Lederfunde aus Schleswig – Futterale, Riemen, Taschen und andere Objekte. Ausgrabung Schild 1971-1975. Ausgrabungen in Schleswig – Berichte und Studien, Band 13. Wachholz Verlag: Neumünster, 1998. ISBN-13 3-529-01463-X. {prices as of summer 2017 are extortionate on Bookfinder, but AntikMakler in Germany has copies for EUR 39,00} siglum: schnack-lederfunde-aus-schleswig

Christiane Schnack, Mittelalterliche Lederfunde aus Konstanz (Grabung Fischmarkt). Materialhefte zur Archäologie in Baden-Württemberg, H. 26 (Konrad Theiss Verlag: Stuttgart, 1994) siglum: schnack-lederfunde-aus-konstanz

Johannes Schöbel, Fine Arms and Armor: Treasures in the Dresden Collection (G.P. Putnam's Sons, 1975) siglum: schoebel-arms-and-armor

Schulze-Dörlamm, Mechthild (1995) Das Reichsschwert: Ein Herrschaftszeichen des Saliers Heinrich IV. und des Welfen Otto IV. Jan Thorbecke Verlag, Sigmaringen. {Manouchehr Moshtagh Khorasani recommends on the ‘Sword of St. Maurice’ and its gold-plated olivewood scabbard in Vienna} siglum: schulze-doerlamm-reichsschwert

Scott, David A. / Taniguchi, Yoko / Kosteo, Emil (2001) "The verisimilitude of verdigris: A review of the copper carbonates." Reviews in Conservation 2 pp. 73-91 https://doi.org/10.1179/sic.2001.46.Supplement-1.73

Margaret Scott, Medieval Dress and Fashion. The British Library: London, 2007. {chatty, and with reading lists instead of footnotes, but has high-resolution photos of helpful art and thoughtful comments on the period 840-1570 CE} siglum: scott-medieval-dress-and-fashion

Sophie Scully, Christine Seidel, "A Tüchlein by Justus van Ghent: The Adoration of the Magi in the Metropolitan Museum of Art Re-Examined," Journal of Historians of Netherlandish Art 8:1 (Winter 2016) DOI: 10.5092/jhna.2016.8.1.3 {read 2022} siglum: scully-seidel-tuechlein-by-justus-van-ghent

Denis-François Secousse (ed.) Ordonnances des rois de France de la troisième race (Paris) {the ancien regime had its weaknesses, but they did manage to print all the laws of the House of Valois before that trouble at the forks of the Ohio. These volumes can be searched for words such as tailleur, cousturier, and pourpointier} siglum: secousse-ordonnances-des-rois-de-france

Jens Sensfelder, Crossbows in the Royal Netherlands Army Museum (2008) siglum:sensfelder-crossbows-rnam

Serrano y Sanz, Manuel, «Documentos.— Inventarios aragoneses de los siglos XIV y XV», Boletín de la Real Academia Española, II, 1915, pp. 85-97 https://apps2.rae.es/BRAE_DB.html Author's name from this electronic citation does not match printed journal

Serrano y Sanz, Manuel, «Documentos.— Inventarios aragoneses de los siglos XIV y XV», Boletín de la Real Academia Española, II, 1915, pp. 341-352

Serrano y Sanz, Manuel, «Documentos.— Inventarios aragoneses de los siglos XIV y XV», Boletín de la Real Academia Española, II, 1915, pp. 341-352.

Serrano y Sanz, Manuel, «Documentos.— Inventarios aragoneses de los siglos XIV y XV», Boletín de la Real Academia Española, II, 1915, pp. 707-711.

Serrano y Sanz, Manuel, «Documentos.— Inventarios aragoneses de los siglos XIV y XV», Boletín de la Real Academia Española, III, 1916, pp. 89-92.

Serrano y Sanz, Manuel, «Documentos.— Inventarios aragoneses de los siglos XIV y XV», Boletín de la Real Academia Española, III, 1916, pp. 224-225.

Serrano y Sanz, Manuel, «Documentos.— Inventarios aragoneses de los siglos XIV y XV», Boletín de la Real Academia Española, III, 1916, pp. 359-365.

Serrano y Sanz, Manuel, «Documentos.— Inventarios aragoneses de los siglos XIV y XV», Boletín de la Real Academia Española, IV, 1917, pp. 207-223.

Serrano y Sanz, Manuel, «Documentos.— Inventarios aragoneses de los siglos XIV y XV», Boletín de la Real Academia Española, IV, 1917, pp. 342-355.

Serrano y Sanz, Manuel, «Documentos.— Inventarios aragoneses de los siglos XIV y XV», Boletín de la Real Academia Española, IV, 1917, pp. 517-531.

Serrano y Sanz, Manuel, «Documentos.— Inventarios aragoneses de los siglos XIV y XV», Boletín de la Real Academia Española, VI, 1919, pp. 735-744.

Serrano y Sanz, Manuel, «Documentos.— Inventarios aragoneses de los siglos XIV y XV», Boletín de la Real Academia Española, IX, 1922, pp. 118-134.

Serrano y Sanz, Manuel, «Documentos.— Inventarios aragoneses de los siglos XIV y XV», Boletín de la Real Academia Española, IX, 1922, pp. 262-270.

Serrano y Sanz, Manuel, «Inventarios litúrgicos de algunas iglesias que pertenecían a las órdenes de Santiago y Calatrava», Boletín de la Real Academia Española, XIII, 1926, pp. 44-48.

Aldo A. Settia, Comuni in guerra. Armi ed eserciti nell'Italia delle città, Bibl. stor. mediev. 7 (CLUEB: Bologna, 1993) siglum: settia-comuni-in-guerra {info on lamers and other obscure armour termss}

Hubert Silvestre. "Le Ms Bruxellensis 10147-58 (S. XII-XIII) et son 'Compendium artis picturae'." Bulletin de la Commission royale d'histoire. Académie royale de Belgique. Tome 119, 1954. pp. 95-140 https://www.persee.fr/doc/bcrh_0001-415x_1954_num_119_1_1533 {On a manuscript on illumination from circa 1200. Mentions the possibility that Theophilius book I has a separate origin from the other books} siglum: xxx

Elisabeth Singer, "Die Setztartschen des Wiener Bürgerlichen Zeughauses: Geschichte, Bedeutung, Konservierung." In Robert Waissenburger (ed.), Studien 79/80 aus dem Historischen Museum der Stadt Wien. Wiener Schriften Heft 44 (Jugend & Volk: Wien and München, 1980) pp. 63-90 {a history of the Bohemnian pavise and square target with analysis focused on the art and the development of the type of shield, brief but clear description of the construction on page 84} siglum: singer-setztarteschen-des-wiener-zeughauses

Jeffrey L. Singman and Will McLean, Daily Life in Chaucer’s England. Daily Life through History Series. London and Westport, Connecticut: Greenwood Press, 1995. siglum: singman-and-mclean-daily-life-in-chaucers-england {a one-stop shop for late 14th century England}

Robert Douglas Smith, ed., Make All Sure: The Conservation and Restoration of Arms and Armour (Leeds: Basiliscoe Press, 2006) One chapter covers the gun shields of Henry VIII. siglum: smith-ed-make-all-sure

Alvaro Soler del Campo, La evolución del armamento medieval en el reino Castellano-leonés y Al-andalus (siglos XII-XIV) (Coleccion Adalid. Servicio de Publicaciones del E.M.E: Madrid, 1993) {arms and armour in medieval Iberia, compare menendez-pidal-espana-del-siglo-xiii} siglum: soler-del-campo-armamento-medieval

Judith Spencer (tr.), The Four Seasons of the House of Cerruti. Revised translation (Facts on File Publications: New York, NY and Bicester, England, 1984) {a facsimile and translation of the Tacuinum in the Österreichische Nationalbibliothek, Vienna} siglum: four-seasons-house-cerruti

Konrad Spindler and Harald Stadler (eds.), Das Brigantinen-Symposium auf Schloss Tyrol, Nearchos Sonderheft 9 (2004) siglum: spindler-stadler-brigantinen-symposium

Harald Stadtler, "Die Brigantine von Schloss Tirol in ihrem waffenhistorischen Kontext," in Konrad Spindler and Harald Stadler (eds.), Das Brigantinen-Symposium auf Schloss Tyrol, Nearchos Sonderheft 9 (Landesmuseum Schloss Tirol: Meran, 2004) pp. 20-31 siglum: stadtler-brigantine-von-schloss-tirol

Staniland, Kay (1978) "Clothing and Textiles at the Court of Edward III 1342-1352," in Collectanea Londiniensia: studies in London archaeology and history presented to Ralph Merrifield, pp. 223-234 siglum: staniland-clothing-and-textiles

Staniland, Kay (1989) "The Great Wardrobe Accounts as a source for historians of 14th century clothing and textiles," Textile History, vol. 20, pp. 275-281 siglum: staniland-great-wardrobe-accounts

Staniland, Kay (1991) Medieval Craftsmen: Embroiderers. University of Toronto Press: Toronto, ON and Buffalo, NY {Excellent affordable illustrated introduction focused on England, the only problem is that it is not cited and has a very basic bibliography. #embroidery} siglum: staniland-embroiderers

David Starley, “What’s the Point? A Metallurgical Insight into Medieval Arrowheads,” in Robert Bork, ed., De Re Metallica: the Uses of Metal in the Middle Ages (Ashgate Publishing: Aldershot, 2005), pp. 207-218 siglum: starley-whats-the-point

David Starley and Rachel S. Cubitt, "Wars of the Roses: battlefield arrow-heads under the microscope," Historical Metallurgy 48 (2014) pp. 61–68 https://hmsjournal.org/index.php/home/article/download/91/89 {study of fourteen arrows from Tewkesbury Manor, site of the 1471 battle} siglum: starley-cubitt-battlefield-arrowheads

Ad Stijnman, Engraving and Etching 1400-2000 (London: Archetype Publications, 2012) siglum: stijnman-engraving-and-etching

Stone, George Cameron (1961) A Glossary of the Construction, Decoration and Use of Arms and Armor in all Countries and in All Times, Together with Some Closely Related Subjects (Jack Brusell: New York; first printing The Southworth Press, 1934) https://archive.org/details/glossaryofconstr0000geor/ {The second publisher's biography is entertaining} siglum: stone-glossary

Randall Storey, Technology and Military Policy in Medieval England, c. 1250-1350 (PhD Thesis, University of Reading, 2003) http://www.randallstorey.karoo.net/thesis.html (Storey on Wayback Machine) siglum: storey-technology-and-military-policy

Matthew Strickland and Robert Hardy, The Great Warbow: from Hastings to the Mary Rose (Sutton Publishing: Phoenix Mill, Gloucestershire, 2005) siglum: strickland-hardy-great-warbow

Strassburg MS on Colours (the earliest vernacular handbook on painting from northern Europe (c. 1400), transcribed before it was burned in the Prussian siege of Strassburg) https://digi.ub.uni-heidelberg.de/diglit/berger1897bd3/0172/image,info siglum: strassburg-ms-vom-farben

Douglas W. Strong, “An Analysis of 1300 Effigies Dated Between 1300 and 1450.” http://talbotsfineaccessories.com/armour/effigy/effigy%20analysis.html siglum: strong-1300-effigies

Susan Moshe Stuard, Gilding the Market: Luxury and Fashion in Fourteenth-Century Italy (University of Pennsylvania Press, 2006) ISBN 9780812239003 {chatty book on material culture by someone who mainly works with written sources} siglum: stuard-gilding-the-market

Stratford, Jenny (ed.) (1993) The Bedford Inventories: The Worldly Goods of John, Duke of Bedford, Regent of France (1389-1435). Reports of the Research Committee of the Society of Antiquaries of London, no. 49 (Society of Antiquaries of London: London) #document #inventory {not very interesting unless you like luxurious church fittings} siglum: stratford-bedford-inventories

Isis Sturtewagen, All Together Respectably Dressed: Fashion and Clothing in Bruges during the Fifteenth and Sixteenth Centuries. Doctoral dissertation, University of Antwerp, Faculty of Arts, Department of History, 2016 https://hdl.handle.net/10067/1316950151162165141 {this book focuses on inventories from the mid-15th-century onwards, but I encourage my gentle readers to buy the printed version as soon as it appears} siglum: sturtewagen-fashion-and-clothing-in-bruges

Hugo Suolahti, Der französische Einfluss auf die mittelhochdeutsche Sprache in der ersten Hälfte des XIV. Jahrhunderts. Mémoires de la Société néophilologique de Helsinki VIII and X (Helsinki: Société Néophilologique, 1929, 1933)

Hammond, P.W., and Sutton, Anne F., The Coronation of Richard III: the Extant Documents (Alan Sutton: Gloucester, 1983)

Lois Swales and Zoe Kuhn Williams, Fingerloop Braids https://fingerloop.org/ {Excerpts from "Tak V Bowes" and two 17th century manuscripts for silkwomen} siglum: swales-williams-fingerloop-braids

Louise Sylvester, Mark C. Chambers, Gale R. Owen-Crocker (eds.), Medieval Dress and Textiles in Britain: A Multilingual Sourcebook (Boydell & Brewer, 2014) (a mix of reprints and new editions) siglum: medieval-dress-and-textiles-a-sourcebook

Szafran and Khandekar 2002 = Szafran, Yvinne, and Khandekar, Narayan (2002) "Varnish and Early Italian Paintings: Evidence and Implications." In P. Sherwin Garland, ed., Early Italian Paintings: Approaches to Conservation (Yale University Press: New Haven, CT), pp. 108-119

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Pseudo-Taillevent, Le Viandier https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Le_Viandier - translation at http://www.telusplanet.net/public/prescotj/data/viandier/viandier1.html {this cookbook was continually edited from around 1300 to the first printed edition in 1486, at some point it was attributed to the 14th-century cook Guillaume Tirel called Taillevent} siglum: ps-taillevent-le-viandier

Prosper Tarbé (ed.), Inventaire après le decès de Richard Picque, Archevêque de Reims, 1389 (Reims: Société des bibliophiles de Reims, 1842) OCLC 458177407 {This inventory is more than a hundred pages long} siglum: tarbe-ed-inventaire-de-richard-picque

Tarner, Patrick / Pause, Carl (2022) "Medieval war hammers made of lead. Archaeological finds from the Burgundian siege of Neuss in 1474/75." Acta Militaria Mediaevalia vol. XVIII, 37–57. DOI: 10.48280/AMMXVIII.2022.002 {these weapons are attested from Froissart and Eustache Deschamps (1374) onwards} siglum: tarner-pause-hammers-made-of-lead

W. T. S. Tarver, “The Traction Trebuchet: A Reconstruction of an Early Medieval Siege Engine,” Technology and Culture, Vol. 36, No. 1. (January 1995) pp. 136-167 siglum: tarver-traction-trebuchet

Tatton-Brown, Tim (1974) "Excavations at the Custom House Site, City of London, 1973," Transactions of the London & Middlesex Archaeological Society, Volume 25, pp. 117-219 {Pages 138-141, 201-204 and Figs. 43-44 discuss a medieval buckler in a context of the thirteenth or fourteenth century.} siglum: tatton-brown-excavations-customs-house-1973

Heinrich der Teichner, Gedichte (d. ca. 1372-1378, Vienna): Die Gedichte Heinrichs des Teichners, Band 3. Hrsg. von Heinrich Niewöhner, (Deutsche Texte des Mittelalters 48), Berlin 1956 www.mhdwb-online.de/ siglum: teichner-ed-niewoehner

Maria Emília Amaral Teixeira, tr. Isabel Motta, O loudel de D. João I/The Loudel of D. João I. 3rd edition (Museu de Alberto Sampaio: n.p., 1999) ISBN 972-776-012-0 {a sleeveless quilted garment said to have been dedicated after the battle of Aljubarrota between Castilian and Anglo-Portugese forces in 1385} siglum: teixeira-loudel-de-d-joao

Pierre Terjanian, “The Armourers of Cologne: Organization and Export Markets of a Foremost European Armour-making Center (1391-1660),” Journal of the Armour Research Society 1 (2005) {sixteenth-century focus} siglum: terjanian-armourers-of-cologne

Pierre Terjanian, Princely Armor in the Age of Dürer: A Renaissance Masterpiece in the Philadelphia Museum of Art (Yale University Press, 2012)

Pierre Terjanian, "The King and the Armourers of Flanders," in Graeme Rimer and Thom Richardson, eds., Henry VIII: Arms and the Man (Leeds, 2018) pp. 1-8 siglum: terjanian-king-and-the-armourers-of-flanders

Theophilius, On Diverse Arts: This Latin treatise has been translated into English as John G. Hawthorne and Cyril Stanley Smith (tr.), Theophilius on Divers Arts: The Foremost Medieval Treatise on Painting, Glassmaking and Metalwork. Dover Publications Inc: New York, 1979 https://archive.org/details/ondiversartsfore0000theo. A Latin transcription of Theophilius Presbyter de diversis artibus, vel schedula diversarum artium, libri III is available on Bibliotheca Augustana (based on Hendrie's edition published in 1847). A better edition is C.R. Dodwell (ed.), Theophilius de diversis artibus (Thomas Nelson and Sons Ltd., London, 1961). There are also German-Latin parallel texts eg. the edition and translation of Albert Ilg https://archive.org/details/scheduladiversa00pregoog/. siglum: theophilius-de-diversis-artibus

Manuscripts of Theophilius

Augustin Thierry (ed.), Recueil des monuments inédits de l’histoire du tiers état: prèmière série, chartes, coutumes, actes municipaux, statuts des corporations d’arts et metiers des villes et communes de France, région du Nord. Tome deuxième (Paris: Imprimerie Impériale, 1853) https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k2515d/ {rule of the pourpointiers of Amiens from Febuary 1428/1429} siglum: thierry-recueil-des-monuments-2

Augustin Thierry (ed.), Recueil des monuments inédits de l’histoire du tiers état: prèmière série, chartes, coutumes, actes municipaux, statuts des corporations d’arts et metiers des villes et communes de France, région du Nord. Tome quatrième (Paris: Imprimerie Impériale, 1870) https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k315784/ {Table of contents at the end lists rules for glovers (p. 302, year 1478), tailors and pourpointiers (p. 311, c. 1480), armourers (who also made scabbards), shipwrights (p. 318), drapers-chaussers (pp. 332, year 1497), painters and illuminators (p. 341-347, sixteenth century). They also have a sumptuary law from 1467 but its not very detailed.} siglum: thierry-recueil-des-monuments-4

Clive Thomas, "A Distinctive Group of Swords from the Arsenal of Alexandria," in David A. Oliver, ed., The 20th Anniversary London Park Lane Arms Fair (Apollo Magazine Ltd.: n.p., 2003) On Oakeshott type XVIII-c swords siglum: thomas-swords-from-the-arsenal

Daniel V. Thompson, The Practice of Tempera Painting (Yale University Press: New Haven, CT, 1936; reprinted Dover Publications: New York, NY, 1962) {classic retelling of cennini-libro-dell-arte, especially useful when it describes a modern equivalent of Cennini's processes which often replaces Cennini's process in other retellings} siglum: thompson-practice-of-tempera-painting

Hilde Thunem, “Recreating Viking Clothing” http://urd.priv.no/viking/ siglum: thunem-viking-clothing

Sarah Thursfield, The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant: Common Garments 1100-1480. 2nd Edition, Revised and Expanded (Costume and Fashion Press: n.p,, 2015) available from publisher {I have mixed feelings about this book, it teaches practical sewing skills and good philosophy like ‘don’t obsess about finding exactly the right material’ but her doublets are not shaped like originals- I think her 'sloper-based patterning' is not the best approach for this period} siglum: thursfield-medieval-tailors-assistant

T. F. Tout, "Firearms in England in the fourteenth century," English Historical Review, 26 (1911), 666–702 {reprinted Arms & Armour Press, 1968; cp. richardson-medieval-inventories on everything except the guns, shot, and gunpowder} siglum: tout-firearms-in-england

Turner, Dawson (1847) "Extracts from original MSS. belonging to the Norwich corporation, and other documents," Norfolk Archaeology, Vol 1 No. 1, pp. 1-64 https://doi.org/10.5284/1077218 {some sources on Norfolk musters in the 16th century} siglum: turner-norwich-corporation

Robert W. Trump, The Annotated Arnold: A Commentary on Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620 by Janet Arnold (self-published, 1987; second edition 1999) {a detailed critical review of arnold-patterns-of-fashion-3. Points out that she does not provide information systematically or explain how she created patterns for existing garments. Notes when her drawings of how the garments would have looked when new do not match her pattern drawings or the pattern drawings do not make a workable garment. Shows that the interpretation of the hanging sleeve / manga da armar on page 5 right does not match the art or the Spanish cutting plan it is based upon. Since then at least one garment which she saw as authentic has been reinterpreted as stage costume from the 19th century (#9 p. 70 a jacket, LACMA M.63.49)} siglum: trump-annotated-arnold

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Uzielli, Luca / Cardinali, Elisa / Vici, Paolo Dionisi / Fioravanti, Marco / Salvioli, Nicola (2008) "Structure, mock-up model and environment-induced deformations of Italian laminated wood parade shields from the 16th century." COST IE0601 Wood in Culture Heritage, Braga (PT) (2008) https://www.academia.edu/663455 {on wooden rotelle shields, see also meighan-technical-note} siglum: uzielli-et-al-laminated-wood-parade-shields

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Ina Vanden Berghe and Beatrix Nutz, "The Hidden Colours of Lengberg Castle, Austria." In Karina Grömer and Frances Pritchard (eds.) Aspects of the Design, Production and Use of Textiles and Clothing from the Bronze Age to the Early Modern Era. NESAT 12 (Achaeolingua Alapítvány: Budapest, 2015) pp. 51-63 {focused on wool and silk textiles but mentions blue linen and blue linen thread} siglum: vanden-berghe-nutz-hidden-colours-of-lengberg

Alberto Velasco and Francesc Fité, eds., Late Gothic Painting in the Crown of Aragon and the Hispanic Kingdoms (Leiden: Brill, 2018) Focus is the late 15th century siglum: velasco-fite-eds-late-gothic-painting

Florent Véniel, Le Costume Médiéval: de 1320 à 1480. Second edition (Éditions Heimdal: St Martin-des-Entrées, France, 2021) ISBN 978-2840485728 (cp. anderlini-costume-medieval-1180-1320) siglum: veniel-costume-medieval-1320-1480

Marco Vignola, Riflessioni sulla basilarda. Analisi tipologiche e spunti ricostruttivi (Bookstones: Rimini, 2016) {booklet on basilards with a typology, photos of surviving examples, and details for bladesmiths} siglum: vignola-riflessioni-sulla-basilarda

Marco Vignola, Armature e armorari nella Milano medievale: Storia di famiglie, signa, magli e acciaio (Edizioni dell’Orso: Alessandria, IT, 2017) ISBN 978-88-6274-762-2 https://www.ediorso.it/armature-e-armorari-nella-milano-medievale.html siglum: vignola-armature-e-armorari-nella-milano

Robin Vogelzang tr., Joan Santanach ed., The Book of Sent Soví: Medieval Recipes from Catalonia (Barcino-Tamesis, 2008) ISBN-13 9781855661646 #cooking siglum: vogelzang-book-of-sent-soví

Marquita Volken, Archaeological Footwear: Development of Shoe Patterns and Styles from Prehistory til the 1600’s (SPA Uitgevers, 2014) ISBN-13 978-9089321176 siglum: volken-archaeological-footwear

Marquita Volken, “Arming Shoes of the Fifteenth Century.” Acta Periodica Duellatorum 5.2 (December 2017) pp. 25-45 https://doi.org/10.1515/apd-2017-0007 {by a very respected expert in shoes, but her friends in armour seem unhappier about medieval shoes than my friends in armour} siglum:volken-arming-shoes

Marquita Volken and Olaf Goubitz, Covering the Blade: Archaeological Leather Sheaths and Scabbards (SPA Uitgevers, 2020) ISBN-13 9789089320513 (Biblio) siglum:volken-goubitz-covering-the-blade

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Rolf Warming, Viking Age Round Shields and High Medieval Bucklers: The Emergence of the Sword and Buckler Tradition in Scandinavia (in press)

John Waterer, Leather and the Warrior: An account of the importance of leather to the fighting man from the time of the ancient Greeks to World War II (The Museum of Leathercraft: Northampton, 1981) On cuir bouille among others; cp. the out-of-print PDF by Chris Dobson

Watson, David R. (2009) Iolo’s First Book of Crossbows. 2nd Edition (Gwasg Caeseg Wen Press: Austin, TX) http://www.newworldarbalest.com/iolos-first-book-of-crossbows.html siglum: watson-iolos-book-of-crossbows

Albert Way, "Illustrations of Medieval Manners and Costume from Original Documents. Jousts of Peace, Tournaments, and Judicial Combats" The Archaeological Journal, Vol. 4 (1847), pp. 226-239 https://archaeologydataservice.ac.uk/archives/view/archjournal/contents.cfm?vol=4 siglum: way-jousts-tournaments-judicial-combats

Albert Way, “Accounts of the Constables of Dover Castle,” The Archaeological Journal, Vol. 11 (1854) pp. 381-388 https://archaeologydataservice.ac.uk/archives/view/archjournal/contents.cfm?vol=11

Albert Way, "Notice of a Head-piece of Brigandine Armour, found at Davington Priory, in Possession of Mr. Thomas Willement, F.S.A." The Archaeological Journal, Vol. 14 (1857) pp. 345-348 https://doi.org/10.5284/1018054 {on a cap in jack of plates construction found atop the stone part of a wall in Kent. The circumference of the opening for the head is only about six inches} siglum: way-brigandine-headpiece

Way, Albert (1858) "Inventory and effects of Roger de Mortimer at Wigmore Castle and Abbey, Herefordshire. Dated 15 Edward II, AD 1322," The Archaeological Journal, vol. 15, pp. 354–362 siglum: way-effects-of-roger-de-mortimer

Albert Way, "The Armour and Arms belonging to Henry Bowet, Archbishop of York, deceased in 1423; from the Roll of his Executors' Accounts," The Archaeological Journal, Vol. 19 (1862) pp. 159-165 https://archaeologydataservice.ac.uk/archives/view/archjournal/contents.cfm?vol=19

Albert Way, “Inventory of the Armoury in the Castle of Amboise, in the reign of Louis XII,” The Archaeological Journal, Vol. 26 (1869) pp. 209-224 https://archaeologydataservice.ac.uk/archives/view/archjournal/contents.cfm?vol=26 siglum: way-inventories-of-amboise

Wedell, Moritz (2010) "Metrology." In Albrecht Classen (ed.), Handbook of Medieval Studies: Terms - Methods - Trends (Walter de Gruyter: Berlin/New York) vol. 1 pp. 897-919 {survey of publications on weights and measures} siglum: wedell-metrology

Wey, Willian (1458) “A Provision.” In George Willias and Bulkeley Bandinel (eds.), The Itineraries of William Wey, fellow of Eton college. To Jerusalem, A.D. 1458 and A.D. 1462; and to Saint James of Compostella, A.D. 1456. From the original manuscript in the Bodleian library (Roxburghe Club: London, 1857) pp. 4-7 https://archive.org/details/cu31924013279462/page/n43 Condensed, Modern English version at https://sites.fas.harvard.edu/~chaucer/special/varia/pilgrimage/wm-wey.html siglum:wey-itineraries

Ernest Wickersheimer, ed., Anatomies de Mondino dei Luzzi et de Guido de Vigevano (Eugénie Droz: Paris, 1926) https://doi.org/10.6083/bpxhc42798 or https://wellcomecollection.org/works/wjy99kw9 A facsimile of some leaves from the Liber Notabilium by Guido da Vigevano from 1345 (Chantilly, Musée Condé, Ms. 334) siglum: wickersheimer-ed-anatomies-luzzi-vigevano

Katherine Anne Wilson, The Power of Textiles: Tapestries of the Burgundian Diminions (1363-1477). Burgundica 26. Turnhout: Brepolis, 2018. siglum: wilson-power-of-textiles

Annemariek Willemsen, Medieval Chic in Metal: Decorative Mounts on Belts and Purses From the Low Countries, 1300-1600. Stichting Promotie Archeologie, 2012. siglum: willemsen-medieval-chic

Annemarieke Willemsen, “‘Man is a sack of muck girded with silver’: Metal Decoration on Late-medieval Leather Belts and Purses from the Netherlands, Medieval Archaeology 56 (2012) pp. 171-202 DOI: 10.1179/0076609712Z.0000000006 {summary of her book on small finds} siglum: willemsen-leather-belts-purses

Annemarieke Willemsen, Honderden… Van hand tot hand: handschoenen en wanten in de Nederlanden voor 1700. Spa uitgevers B.V.: Leiden, 2015. ISBN-13 9789089321275. siglum: willemsen-handschoenen-en-wanten

Williams, Alan. The Knight and the Blast Furnace: A History of the Metallurgy of Armour in the Middle Ages and the Early Modern Period (Leiden and Boston: Brill, 2003)

Alan Williams, "The metallurgy of brigandines from Szczerba and Kempten," Acta Militaria Mediaevalia 5 (2009), pp. 213-219 {Szczerba PL was destroyed in 1428, the Kempten DE finds are from the 14th or 15th century, all seemed to have 0% to 0.1% carbon} siglum: williams-brigandines-szczerba-kempten

Williams Jr., Hermann W. (trans.), "A sixteenth-century German treatise: Von Stahel und Eysen. 1532," Technical Studies in the Field of the Fine Arts, 4.2 (October, 1935), pp. 63-92 (a pamphlet on quenching recipes which focuses on water but adds blood, urine, and various mixtures; one person told me that he suspected the secret recipes were for people who insisted that there had to be more to it than 'learn this simple procedure and practice practice practice') siglum: williams-tr-vom-stahl-und-eisen

Windsor Park tournament roll of 1278: Samuel Lysons, "Copy of a Roll of Purchases made for the Tournament of Windsor Park...", Archaeologia, or, Miscellaneous tracts relating to antiquity, volume 17 (1814) pp. 302-304 https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=umn.31951d00576441q;view=1up;seq=364 {this has cuiries, leather helms, and baleen swords with silvered blades and gilt hilts and pommels. Ralph Moffat, James Spriggs and Sonia O'Connor could not find any later editions in 2008. One interesting entry: Paid Milon' le Cuirreur' for 38 quiret' (cuiries) price 3 s. apiece, 38 copita of leather similar to a horse's head price 2 s. apiece, 38 pairs of alect' (also spelled alett', ailettes?) of leather price 8 d. apiece, total 10 pounds 15 s. 4 d. (2584 pence)} siglum: lysons-tournament-of-windsor-park

Johann Ernst Wülfing, ed., The Laud Troy book: a romance of about 1400 A.D. Two parts (London : Published for Early English Text Society by Kegan Paul, Trench, Trübner, 1902 and 1903) https://archive.org/details/laudtroybookroma00bodluoft/ https://archive.org/details/laudtroybookromapt200bodluoft siglum: laud-troy-book-ed-wuelfling

C.M. Woolgar, Household Accounts from Medieval England. Records of social and economic history, New Series, 17 (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1992 and 1993) {one book published in two parts: the first explains his methods and talks about the physical documents, the second has most of the clothing and accessories} siglum:woolgar-household-accounts

Christopher M. Woolgar, ed., The Elite Household in England, 1100-1500. Harlaxton Medieval Studies, Volume XXVIII (Shaun Tyas: Donington, Lincolnshire, 2018)

Woosnam-Savage, Robert C. "'our bruised arms hung up for monuments: The Sword of King Henry V?", in The Funeral Achievements of Henry V at Westminster Abbey: The Arms and Armor of Death. Royal Armouries Research Series (The Boydell Press: 2022) NON VIDI IN TYPOGRAPHIE {argues that this is the sword of Henry VII not Henry V} siglum: woosnam-savage-sword-henry-v

Monica L. Wright, "The Bliaut: An Examination of the Evidence in French Literary Sources," Medieval Clothing and Textiles, volume 14 (2018) pp. 61-79 {Argues that the texts say no more than that the twelfth-century bliaut is a long cote of precious materials often worn by women, and Violet-le-Duc identified it with art that does not match the limited written sources} siglum: wright-bliaut-in-literary-sources

Ann Wroe, A Fool and His Money: Life in a Partitioned Town in Fourteenth-Century France (Hill & Wang: New York, NY, 1995) {tries to be origo-merchant-of-prato for the small, poor city of Rodez in Provence circa 1369/1370} siglum: wroe-fool-and-his-money

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H. M. Zijlstra-Zweens, 'Of His Array Telle I No Lenger Tale': Aspects of Costume, Arms, and Armour in Western Europe, 1200-1400. Rodopi, 1988. () siglum: zijlstra-zweens-of-his-array

Hanna Zimmerman, tr. Dorothée Wortelboer, Textiles in Context: an analysis of archaeological textile finds from early 16th-century Groningen (Fat Goose Press, 2025) {website does not have full bibliographic information such as year and ISBN} siglum: zimmerman-textiles-in-context

Ronald Edward Zupko, French Weights and Measures before the Revolution: a Dictionary of Provincial and Local Units (Bloomington Indianapolis: Indiana University Press, 1978) siglum: zupko-french-weights-and-measures

Ronald Edward Zupko, A Dictionary of Weights and Measures for the British Isles: the Middle Ages to the Twentieth Century. (American Philosophical Society: Philadelphia, 1985) https://archive.org/details/bub_gb_0l_k-XMIiQIC/page/n153/mode/2up {I have never been at a library which owned this. See the article by Abraham-Thisse on ells and the book by Pfiffer on ells} siglum:zupko-british-weights-and-measures

Ronald Edward Zupko, Italian Weights and Measures from the Middle Ages to the Nineteenth Century. Memoirs of the American Philosophical Society 145 (American Philosophical Society: Philadelphia, 1981) siglum:zupko-italian-weights-and-measures

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Not yet sorted:

These are things I have read but not written up citations for, or things I have heard of but not obtained, or things I have skimmed but not read enough to put them in the bibliography and treat as 'things I have read to reference as needed'.

Work siglum:sig

Paris hosiers of 1268 (?)

Paris Tailors and Couturiers of Robes' Rule of 1366

Statuts des chaussetiers de Touraine, février 1447/8 (“Ordonnances des rois de France…”: vol. 13, index and pp. 536-539 https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k108684h/f637.item) On AgeOfDatini

“4. Ordnung des Raths über die Meisterprüfung der Schneider. 1454, Mai 25. Altestes Rathbuch, Bl. 26.” In Max Bär (ed.), Urkunden und Akten zur Geschichte der Verfassung und Verwaltung der Stadt Koblenz bis zum Jahre 1500 (Bonn: Hermann Behrend, 1898) pp. 236-238 https://archive.org/details/urkundenundakte00brgoog/ ; the quote is page 237 line 8 (they also have an ordinances for hatters etc.) The Gebrüder Grimm kindly cited under Wams β “(als meisterstück soll er schneidern) eynen gemeynen mans tabert und eyns mans wambusch mit gelenken oder ufglaichten (< geleichen?) armen, wie man das nent.” On Age of Datini

Ordonnances des Roys du France XV pp. 474-478 has the rule of the pourpointiers and tailors of Bordeaux from 1462. Its not very interesting at first glance and the Gascon is hard for me to understand. https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k1086868/f557.image

Statutes of the tailors and pourpointiers of Poitiers, 29 June 1458 (confirmed March 1461). “Ordonnance des rois de France…”) XV pp. 402ff. https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k1086868/f485.item They made doublets and pourpoints too; item 7 is the only interesting one, a “no one shall put wool or tow (layne ou estouppes) in a doublet or pourpoint which he make for sale” clause (clause 6 is about responsibility for miscutting).. Reprinted as Paul Guérin (ed.), Recueil des documents concernant le Poitou contenus dans les registres de la Chancellerie de France, t. 10: 1456-1464. In: Archives historiques du Poitou, t. 35 (Poitiers : Société française d'imprimerie et de librairie, 1906) year 1462 p. 335 https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k2095025/f381.item

Ordonnances des Roys du France vol. 16 pp. 581-586 (year 1467), Louis XI's ordinance for the pourpointiers of Paris https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k108687n/f707.item Another edition of the same text is on on Armour in Texts under the year 1382 (they kept reissuing tiny variants of the old rule).

“L. Statut des Parmentiers, Pourpointiers et Tailleurs” (1480) In Augustin Thiérry, Recueil des monuments inédits de l’histoire du Tiers-Etat. Première série, Chartes, coutumes, actes municipaux, statuts des villes et communes de France. Région du Nord. 2. IV. Contenant les pièces relatives à l’histoire municipale d’Abbeville et à celle des villes, bourgs et villages de la Basse-Picardie… (Paris: Félix Bourquelot et Charles Louandre, 1850-1870) pp. 311-314 https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k315784/f323.item Reminds me of the one from Amiens, they allow wool as a stuffing. There is a rule for armourers and scabbard-makers on pp. 317-318 but its not very interesting.

Statuts des marchands drapiers et chaussetiers d’Abbeville, 14 août 1497. (Thierry, Augustin, “Recueil des monuments inédits de l’histoire du Tiers Etat…”)

Prof. Dr. Frank Göttmann, Handwerk und Bündnispolitik. Die Handwerkerbünde am Mittelrhein vom 14. bis zum 17. Jh. (Frankfurter Historische Abhandlungen 15). Wiesbaden 1977.

Luciana Frangioni, various

Grimm s.v. Wams n. etc. (note that the Gebrüder Grimm mix a thousand years of language history into one entry, so take time to make sure you understand where each passage comes from)

Material from Dr. Joseph Byrne's INTERNATIONAL BIBLIOGRAPHY OF MEDIEVAL AND EARLY MODERN WILLS AND PROBATE INVENTORIES (last updated in 2000)

  • AOSTA, Fausto "Aspetti di vita materiale a Piacenza tra Due e Trecento." Bollettino storico piacentino 80 (1985) 145-177. [Wills and P.I.s, 73 printed. Piacenza, 1390-1410. Urban material culture; tabulates frequency of objects' appearances in documents.]
  • BRUNETTI, Mario "Nuovi documenti viscontei tratti dal'Archivio di Stato di Venezia. Figli e nipoti di Bernabò Visconti." Archivio lombardo 4th ser. 12 (1909) 5-88. [Wills printed and discussed. Milan, 1398, 1399, 1403, 1409. Visconti family, nobility.]
  • FRANCESCHINI, Adriano "Inventari inediti di biblioteche ferraresi del secolo XV. A. La biblioteca di Francesco di Lignamine vescovo di Ferrara (1446-1460)." Atti e memorie della Deputazione ferrarese di storia patria 3rd ser. 24 (1977) 51-85.
  • VanCaenegem, Raoul C. / Jocqué, Lucas (eds.)"Introduction aux sources de l'histoire médiévale" Turnholti: Brepols 1997 600/BO 1160 C822 M4 I6

Material from Niklas’ bibliography Quellen des 14.Jahrhunderts – Literatur für die persönliche Ausstattung (2015):

  • Christiane Schnack, „Mittelalterliche Lederfunde aus Konstanz“
  • Heinz Knorr, „Messer und Dolch – Eine Untersuchung zur mittelalterlichen Waffenkunde in gesellschaftlicher Sicht“ in Veröffentlichungen des Museums Potsdam 6 (1971) pp. 121-145
  • Hilke Saggau, „Mittelalterliche Eisenfunde aus Schleswig“
  • Ronald W. Lightbown „Medieval European Jewelry“
  • Harry Kühnel, “Alltag im Spätmittelalter”
  • Jan Keupp, “Die Wahl des Gewandes: Mode, Macht und Möglichkeitssinn in Gesellschaft und Politik des Mittelalters” Ostfildern: Jan Thorbecke Verlag 2010
  • Ilse Fingerlin, „Gürtel des hohen und späten Mittelalters“

Material on documents in Holtmann:

  • Konrad Ullmann, “Dolchmesser, Dolche und Kurzwehren des 15. und 16. Jahrhunderts im Kernraum der Hanse,” Waffen- und Kostümkunde 1-2 (1961)
  • Konrad Ullmann, Das Werk der Waffenschmiede. Schriften zur Kulturgeschichte des Rheinisch-Westfälischen Industriegebietes, Heft 11, Essen (1962)
  • F. Fuhse, Schmiede und verwandte Gewerbe in der Stadt Braunschweig, Leipzig 1930
  • F. Fuhse, Handwerksaltertümer, Braunschweig 1935

Adolf Diestelkamp, Die Entwicklung des Schneidergewerbes in Deutschland bis zum Ausgang des 16. Jahrhunderts, G. Eilert: Unna in Westfalen, 1922. OCLC 928145795 review on JSTOR

Ernst Müllerleile, Die Gewandschneidergilde in Hildesheim, 1913. OCLC 71961264. Reprinted in Zeitschrift des Historischen Vereins für Niedersachsen, Jahrgang 1913, Heft 2-3, Seiten 125-197 (this issue does not seem to have been digitalized as of 2021) review on JSTOR - same review without the paywall - scan on Google books

Sabine Struckmeier, Die Textilfärberei vom Spätmittelalter bis zur Frühen Neuzeit: Eine naturwissenschaftlichßtechnische Analyse deutschsprachiger Quellen. Cottbuser Studien zur Geschichte von Technik, Arbeit und Umwelt 35. Waxmann: Münster, 1935. {check out pages 39 and following for a list of 14th and 15th century manuscripts with several hundred dyers’ recipes, many of them unpublished but some in Ploss’ Buch von alten Farben or Oltrogge, Datenbank mittelalterlicher und frühneuzeitlicher Rezepte in handschriftlichre Überlieferung = http://db.cics.th-koeln.de/}

Poems of Peter Suchwirt (d. 1395)

Zimmermann, P. Die junge Haushälterinn, ein Buch für Mütter und Töchter. Basel, 1792 /Luzern: Anich, 1807 {I have not seen this but the webmistress of https://marquise.de/ recommends it}

"The View from Herjolfsnes: Greenland’s Translation of the European Fitted Fashion," in Medieval Clothing and Textiles, vol. 4 pp.143-172 "Hys surcote was ouert": The "Open Surcoat" in Late Medieval British Texts. MC&T 7 (2011) "Clothing Distrained for Debt in the Court of Merchants of Lucca in the Late Fourteenth Century." MC&T 10 (2014)

De Groote, Koen, et al. (2018) “Daer Nu de Boochmakere up Woendt: Geschiedenis En Archeologie van Christoffels Jans, Kruisboogmaker Aan de Veemarkt Te Aalst (1489-1498).” In Koen de Groote and Jan Moens (eds.), Archeologie en geschiedenis van een middeleeuwse woonwijk onder de Hopmarkt te Aalst. Relicta Monografieën 16. (Brussels: Onroerend Erfgoed, 2018) pp. 373-424 http://hdl.handle.net/1854/LU-8584390 {descriptions of scraps found in the house of a late 15th cenutury crossbow-maker}

Gaston Phoebus, Livre de chasse (1387-1389): http://classes.bnf.fr/phebus/livre/index.htm {This was translated into English by Henry II Duke of York between 1406 and 1413 and modernized in 1904 as Master of the Game (with a forward by Theodore Roosevelt!) but that version may be missing some technical details about crossbows, I need to look at both versions}

R. Beuing und W. Augustyn (eds.), Schilde des Spätmittelalters und der Frühen Neuzeit (Passau: Klinger Verlag, 2019) ISBN 978-3-86328-172-4 for sale from histofakt.de Reszension: http://www.sehepunkte.de/2020/02/33424.html siglum: beuing-augustyn-eds-schilde

Kirsten O. Frieling, Sehen und gesehen werden. Kleidung an Fürstenhöfen an der Schwelle vom Mittelalter zur Neuzeit (ca. 1450–1530). (Mittelalter-Forschungen, Bd. 41.) Ostfildern, Thorbecke 2013

Lüken, Sven / Sensfelder, Jens / Jäger, Felix / Reineke, Brigitte (eds.) (2019) Die Armbrust: Schrecken und Schönheit (Hirmer Verlag: München / Deutsches Historisches Museum: Berlin)

Rasmo, Nicolo (1980) Die Mode als Wegweiser für die Datierung von Kunstwerken des 14. Jh. in Südtirol

Sophie Jolivet, “Bibliographie sur le vêtement au Moyen Age.” https://e.20-bal.com/istoriya/6834/index.html

Madou Mireille, Das Mittelalterliche Kostüm in den Niederlanden (Terminologie und Typologie mittelalterlicher Sachgüter: das Beispiel der Kleidung). Veröffentlichungen des Instituts für mittelalterliche Realienkunde Österreichs 10: Sitzungsberichte der österreiche Akademie der wissenschaften phil. hist., kl. 511, Wien, 1988, p. 77-92.

HOCQUET Jean-Claude., La métrologie historique, Paris, P.U.F. 1995

DOURSTHER Horace, Dictionnaire universel des poids et mesures anciens et modernes, réedition, Méridian, Amsterdam, 1965.

Max von Boehn, Die Mode: Menschen und Moden im Mittelalter: Vom Untergang der Alten Welt bis zur Renaissance (München 1925)

Miriam, “Herjolfsnes Errors Repository” http://blackcatsews.blogspot.com/p/herjolfsnes-errors-repository.html

Marquita Volken and Olaf Goubitz, Covering the Blade: Archaeological Leather Sheaths and Scabbards (Spa-Uitgevers, 2020) ISBN-13 9789089320513 {on finds from Dordrecht, the sequel to Purses in Pieces}

Guy Wilson said to have published on medieval crossbow terminology

Magninus Mediolanensis Opusculum de Saporibus (a book of sauces for #cooking from about 1330-1340: Lynn Thorndike, “A Mediaeval Sauce-Book,” Speculum Vol. 9, No. 2 (April 1934), pp. 183-190, Terence Scully, “The ‘Opusculum de Saporibus’ of Magninus Mediolanensis,” Medium Ævum Vol. 54, No. 2 (1985), pp. 178-207. Thanks Sophia of Neues aus der Gothik!)

Clothes of the Common People In Elizabethan and Early Stuart England: A User’s Manual (Stuart Press: Blackwell, England) http://www.stuart-hmaltd.com/new_clothes_textiles_1558_1660.php (non vidi)

Brun-Durand, M. (1896) “Inventaire des Biens Mobiliers et Immobiliers d’un Jurisconsulte de Vanence, 1348.” In Recueil d’anciens inventaires: imprimés sous les auspices du comité des travaux historiques et scientifiques. Section d’archéologie. Tome I pp. 383 ff. https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k1120381/f402.item

Ersler, Kristian Sofus August (ed.), Testamenter fra Danmarks Middelalder indtil 1450 (Copenhagen: Kongelige Danske Selskab for Fædrelandets historie og Sprog, 1901) https://archive.org/details/testamenterfrada00ersl/ {mostly in Latin}

Georg von Nürnberg's 1424 italian-german phrasebook = Oskar Pausch, Das älteste italienisch-deutsche Sprachbuch (1972). See also Helmut Glück, Ein Franke in Venedig: das Sprachlehrbuch des Georg von Nürnberg (1424) und seine Folgen (2006)

John of Reading, Chronicle: James Tait (ed.), Chronica Johannis de Reading et Anonymi cantuariensis, 1346-1367. Publications of the University of Manchester, Historical Series, Vol. 20 (Sherratt and Hughes: Manchester and London, 1914) https://archive.org/details/chronicajohannis00john/ {This monk of Westminister Abbey, who died in 1368/9, comments on the new fashions of the 1360s on pp. 167-168 with commentary on pp. 328-330}

Eulogium: Haydon, Frank Scott (ed.), Eulogium (historiarum sive temporis): Chronicon ab orbe condito usque ad annum Domini M.CCC.LXCI., a monacho quodam Malmesburiensi exaratum; accedunt continuiationes duae, quarum una ad annum M.CCCC XIII., altera ad annum M.CCCC.XC. perducta est. Volume 3 (Longman, Green, Longman, Roberts, and Green: London, 1863) {this chronicle by a monk of Malmesbury comments on the new fashions of the 1360s on vol. 3 pp. 230-231}

K. Franz, Studien zur Soziologie des Sprachdichters in Deutschland im späten 13. Jahrhundert (1974)

G. Franz (ed.), Quellen zur Geschichte des deutschen Bauernstandes im Mittelalter. AQ 31 (1967)

Joachim Bumke, Courtly Culture: Literature and Society in the High Middle Ages

Les Comptes du roi René, publ. d'après les originaux inédits conservés aux Archives des Bouches-du-Rhône [par] G. Arnaud d'Agnel.- Paris : A. Picard, 1908, t. 1. https://books.google.com/books?id=pPBYAAAAYAAJ

Les Comptes du roi René, publ. d'après les originaux inédits conservés aux Archives des Bouches-du-Rhône [par] G. Arnaud d'Agnel.- Paris : A. Picard, 1909, t. 2.

Les Comptes du roi René, publ. d'après les originaux inédits conservés aux Archives des Bouches-du-Rhône [par] G. Arnaud d'Agnel.- Paris : A. Picard, 1910, t. 3.

arms in Padua castle 1478 from Lorenzo the Magnificent's papers https://www.memofonte.it/ricerche/collezionismo-mediceo/#fonti-documentarie https://www.memofonte.it/home/files/pdf/LORENZO_IL_MAGNIFICO.pdf c/o Augusti Boer Bront

Individual chapters of Breiding and Augustyn?

Kyngeston, Richard, and Lucy Toulmin Smith, Expeditions to Prussia and the Holy Land made by Henry earl of Derby (afterwards King Henry IV.) in the years 1390-1 and 1392-3. Being the accounts kept by his treasurer during two years (no place: The Camden Society, 1894) https://archive.org/details/expeditionstopru00kyngrich (For clothing see index p. 338 https://archive.org/details/expeditionstopru00kyngrich/page/338/mode/2up?q=pannus) siglum: kyngeston-smith-eds-expedition-to-prussia

The Boke of Nurture https://www.gutenberg.org/cache/epub/24790/nurture.html (Thanks Will McLean)

Jean de Brie, Le Bon Berger (1379)

The Medieval Shepherd. Jean de Brie’s ‘Le Bon Berger’ (1379), Edited and Translated by Carleton W. Carroll and Lois H. Wilson (Tempe: Arizona, 2012) siglum: le-bon-berger-tr-carroll-wilson

1879 edition here https://archive.org/details/lebonbergeroulev00brie/ https://www.arlima.net/il/jean_de_brie.html

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