Fashion in the Age of Datini

Extant Quilted Garments

Thanks to the patient efforts of many people over the last hundred years, eight quilted garments made in western Europe between 1200 and 1500 have been reasonably well published. The following table should make it easier to compare them.

Garment Layers Weight Made Source
Sleeve at Bussy-St. Martin (upper arm) maroon taffeta silk, raw cotton, linen cloth, linen cloth, raw cotton, maroon silk tafetta M 2×? lagier-manche-bussy
Aketon of Isabelle of France linen cloth, 2 mm thick cotton wool, linen cloth L anderlini-shirt-st-Louis pp. 69-72
Pourpoint of Charles de Blois Cloth of gold, raw cotton, linen cloth L personal observation
Loudis of João I of Portugal ??? ? ? teixeira-loudel-de-d-joao
Coat of Charles VI pattern-woven silk, raw cotton, linen cloth, linen cloth, raw cotton, linen cloth H 2 kelly-pourpoint-charles-vi p. 156
Coat-armour of Edward of Woodstock Red or blue silk velvet, raw cotton, linen cloth? ? 1 arnold-jupon-black-prince pp. 14, 18
Guiparello of Pandolfo III Malatesta silk velvet, linen cloth, mixed fibre stuffing (cotton, wool, flax, hemp, silk), linen cloth, undyed hemp cloth L 1 Carloni citing kusch-et-al-farsetto-di-pandolfo-iii-malatesta
Lübeck jack brushed fustian exterior, heavy linen canvas, raw cotton, heavy linen canvas, brushed fustian lining H 1 finley-luebeck-wappenroecke p. 133

The books and articles will be linked to the bibliography.

Although these garments vary widely in weight and thickness, from 2 mm of stuffing in the aketon of Isabelle of France to more than 20 mm in the red coat of Charles VI, some things are common, like the preference to put one or two layers of fabric on each side of a layer of padding and the preference for linen or hemp lining (6 of 7 garments). We can see that just like in the documents, these garments are overwhelmingly made from linen, hemp, cotton, and silk but not from wool which was the most common material for coats in late medieval Europe. Aketons, pourpoints, gambesons, and doublets were a distinct family of garments with distinctive materials and construction techniques.

About ten doublets from the years 1510 to 1610 survive and have been published. These are build in a different way, around canvas instead of raw fibres.

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