Fashion in the Age of Datini

Doublet-Coats

Detail of "Knights in a Rocky Landscape." Museum of Fine Arts, Budapest, No. 1778

Mac’s favourite drawing in the Museum of Fine Arts, Budapest shows a doublet which is quilted around the skirt, but has a smooth bodice gathered into the skirt.

a hunter in a doublet with a green lining checks a dog’s paw a hunter in a coat with pendant sleeves and a quilted skirt

The painted MS of Gaston Phoebus in the Met (Metropolisan Museum of Art, New York, MS. 1044 Livre de la Chasse https://www.themorgan.org/manuscript/77121 painted in Paris circa 1406) shows some garments with the same characteristics. They have quilted skirts, but bodices which are smooth and have loose or baggy sleeves.

A man on crutches in British Library MS Sloane 56 f. 86v

A miniature in John Arderne’s “Liber Medicinarum,” British Library MS Sloane 56 f. 86v, shows the same. All three manuscripts date around 1400 to 1425.

Has anyone else seen garments like this in art? I think they tell us something about how they went from pourpoints built like a quilt in the 14th century to doublets built like a modern suit in the 16th century.

Updates

A photo from an unknown online source from the Liebfrauenkirche, Arnstadt, Thuringia, Germany

2021-07-02: Bertus Brocamp suggests a mourner on the tomb of Gunter XXV von Honstein (d. 1368) and Elisabeth von Honstein (d. 1381) at the Liebfrauenkirche, Arnstadt, Thuringia, Germany and the doublet / farsetto of Diego Cavaniglia (Montella, Campagnia, Italy, d. 1481) which has a quilted skirt which is laced shut and an unquilted bodice which is buttoned shut.

2021-07-03: Ian Laspina suggets some overdoublets in a German translation of Jacobus de Cessolis' chess book from c. 1317-1322 (Bayerische Staatsbibliothek, Cgm 49 dating around 1407). Note the red sleeves of the doublet which is hidden beneath the white overgarment in https://daten.digitale-sammlungen.de/~db/0008/bsb00088331/images/index.html?seite=16 and the green overgarment in https://daten.digitale-sammlungen.de/~db/0008/bsb00088331/images/index.html?seite=77)

2021-07-04: There is a jacket with a quilted skirt and smooth bodice in a Büchsenmeisterbuch from 1411 (Österreichische Nationalbibliothek, HS. 169 p. 18 of 347. There is a curious doublet on p. 63 of 347

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