Fashion in the Age of Datini

The Apparel for the Field

Author: Anonymous
Original Language: Middle English
Place of Composition: England
Date of Composition: manuscript c. 1480-1510
Source of Text: Sir Francis Grose, A Treatise on Ancient Armour and Weapons (London: S. Hooper, 1786), pp. 83-88
Source of Translation: S. Manning 2021
Conditions of Use: Please give me credit for transcribing this text. Please give me credit for the translation and ask permission before quoting in print.

This little-known text describes everything a lord of wealthy gentleman should bring to the field. Sir Francis Grose estimated that the manuscript in the College of Arms dated to the time of Richard III or Henry VII of England. Grose cites it as "a MSS [sic]. L. 8 fol. 85 in the Coll. of Arms."

L. Campbell & F. Steer et al, A Catalogue of Manuscripts in the College of Arms (1988) (Collections vol. 1) describes this text as follows: "on ff. 85v – 87, apparel for the field for a baron in his sovereign’s company, or for a banneret ‘or a Ryche bacheler’, in Wrythe’s hand, not the same list as that on ff. 54v – 57; a few small additions by Wriothesley." So it appears to still be at the College of Arms almost 250 years after Grose transcribed it.

Original Translation
TH’ apparell for the feld for a baron in his souvereyn compeny, or for a baneret, or a ryche bacheler The apparel for the field for a baron in his sovereign company, or for a baneret, or a rich bachelor.
(p. 83) OON whyte harnesse complette wt 2 hed peces according.
ITEM, 2 peyre of lege harnesse.
(83.v) ITEM, 2 peyre of gauntelets
ITEM, a peyre of brygandyrons wt foldes and flanchardes and standards.
ITEM, 1 axe.
ITEM, 1 holebarte.
ITEM, 1 spere.
(83.x) ITEM, a armeyne swerde.
(p. 84) ITEM, a dager.
ITEM, 2 peyre of armyng spores.
ITEM, cayffs breches.
ITEM, a peyre of cofres for the harneys of gardeveynes.
(84.v) ITEM, garnyshe for your sallat or elemet wt your devyse for the crest.
ITEM, a sumpter horse for the armoury.
ITEM, 2 or 3 coursers.
ITEM, a large amylyng hors to hymselffe armed bysydes an hakney or tweyne for to ryde at pleasr.
As for traper demy trapers of your armes, or of Seynt George, or of oder deyse, or bardes peynted, hyt is more worshyppfull than necessary.
(84.xiv) ITEM, to remember hors herness of velvet of leddr, or of goldsmethes werke.
ALSO change of sadell for your coursers, sum covered wt leder and sum wt velvet: item, stuffe of harshouses 12, and sursyngles 12, of twyne, store of gurthes, 12 tramelles, 12 par pastrons, 13 halters, horscombes (84.xx) 6, manecombes 6 wt sponges, wateryng brydells, canvas for dustinge cloths, portmares, bodekyns, halter, reynges, ledeyng reygnes; store of double sterrop leders, store of horsay, and horse nayles, 1 pere gilt sterops, sterropis of blake vernyshe werke.

ITEM, four sterrop lederes for herynsmen.
ITEM, socket for standards or baners.
ITEM, spores for heynsmen.
ITEm, a charyett strongly made wt byndyng and braying ropes. Supterclothe wt your armes or badge. Item, a hyd of whytleder, or at the lest half a (84.x) hyd for mendynd of your drawgharneys, supterhorse wt the sadelles wanteys and long ledyng reynes. ITEM, a cart, or charyet for your tentes and pavylions.
translation will go here, proofread to here on 19 July 2022
(p. 85)SPERE shaftes, bowes, arrowes, bow streynges, bylles, and a cart to carry them.
M. a pavylion for your self.
ITEM, a hale (= hall) for horses.
ITEM, a hale for your servantes.
ITEM, cotes of your armes for yourself and for your psuivant.
ITEM, a penon of your armes.
ITEM, standardes of your devyse.
ITEM, logyng (= lodging) standard.
ITEM, logyng scotchyns (= escutons "shields painted with your device?").
ITEM, pencells (= penoncells) for your speers.
ITEM, connoysaunce betyn in oyle colour for your carriage.
OFFICERS necessaries- a chappeleyn, that to the masse belongeth, harberours, purveyours for your stable and for your vitayles, a barber, surgeon, a smythe wt his necessaries, a sadler, an armourer wt bycorn, and hys oder necessaries; a trusty chosen man to bear the banr, anoder for the standred, a yeomen for your tentes, bysides horsekeepers, sumptermen, carters.

FOR the wache.
FIRST, a jake, or a good doublet of fence.
ITEM, a hede-pece for the same.
ITEM, a large wachynge gowne.
ITEM, furred or lyned, butteaux.
TH’ apparel for your bodye.
FIRST, 2 armynge doublets.
ITEM, 2 jaketts of leder under your herneys.
ITEM, store of dozen of armyng poyntes sun wt gylt naighletts (aiglets: metal caps protecting the tips of laces)
ITEM, a jaket of white damask or sattin, cloth of gold, silver, or velvett, with a red crosse.
ITEM, a ryche journett or tweyn. Item, a bend (= sash) of Saint George over your harneys.
ITEM, long gownes of silke both furred and lyned.
(p. 86) ITEM, demy gownes both of silke and clothe.
ITEM, rydyng gownes of silke, dowbletts, shirtes, hosen, poyntes, ribandes for laces or gurdyls.
BONETS, hatts, bottes, spores, burgegises, shoes, and such things as shalbe necessary for apparell.
ITEM, a bed wt stuff accordinge, a table made light for cariage, flagons, piece, a low salt, table clothes, a basyn to washe in, towells, a piece of kannevas.
ITEM, a cauldron or two to sethe in mett.
ITEM, a spett, a gredyron, dyshes, a ladyll.
ITEM, a hatchett to make logyngs, and to hew wode to make fire.
ITEM, a short sithe to mow grass.
ITEM, two or three hokeys to cut corne and fetches.
ITEM, a chappelyn wt the ooramentes, that ys to say, vestymentis, massbooke, chales (= chalice), superaltare, a box with store of syngyng bred, store of wax-candell, bysydes his portens.
AND a cook wt a caudron, a gredyron, a ladill, dishes, a spit, a bage wt poudres, salt, a flagon, a bottell wythe vyneger and oyle olyve.
ITEM, store of dyverse spices as almands, &c.
translation will go here
Remembrans of the apparell for the felde belonging to a Knight or a Esquire of faire lands wiche hath a retinu. Reminder of the apparell for the field belonging to a knight or esquire with good lands who has a revenue
IN prim. an whyt harneys cõplette, with two hede peces accordinge.
ITEM, 2 good horses, at the lest oon for hymself and anodr for his page.
ITEM, a large amelyng hors to bere hymselfe armed to spare the courser.
ITEM, good strong sadels of warre wt harneys accordyng.
ITEM, harneys for hys amelyng hors.
ITEM, store of gurthes and sursengles of tweyne, of stiroppes and sterrop ledders both for hymselfe and hys page.
translation will go here. English sursengle seems to be related to French surseinte in The Baggage of a Student in 1347
x y
(p. 87) HALTERS, horse combes, mane combs, waterynge ydels, horsehoues (= horseshoes), canvas for dustynge clothes, halter reyngnes, ledyng reyngnes, kases of leder for the sadels.
ITEM, 2 pere of armyng spores.
(87.v) ITEM, and he may have a barde for the courser hyt is commendable.
ITEM, to remember the garnyshe of oone hedpece at the lest.
ITEM, store of sure spere hedys; item, an axe or an halbert to walke wt in the felde; item, an armynge sword, a dager, and hit (87.x) were well doon to have a mase at the sadell pommell; item, a sumpterhorse harnyshed and wt coffers or gardeinans for his harnoys.
ITEM, a cote of armes for hymselfe.
ITEm, a penon of his armes, and a baneret to have a baner of hys armes.
(87.xv) ITEM, a standard of his devyse.
ITEM, oone or 2 getours at the leest.
ITEM, pencells for his speere.
ITEM, cognysaunces for his carriage.
ITEM, loging scochyngs both on bokeram in oyle and sum in (87.xx) paper, both in colour and metall.

FOR the wache.

A payre of breygandyrons or a strong doublett of feure with a hede pece for the same.
ITEM, a large wachynge gowne forred or lyned yet better lyned.
(87.xxv) ITEM, good warme boteaulx or burgegyses.

THE appareille for his bodye.

FIRST, ij armyng doubletts.
ITEM, a jakett of leder under his harneis.
ITEM, store of armyng poyntes.
( ITEM, a jakett of white damaske or saten with a red crosse.
ITEM, a bend of Seynt George above your harneys.
translation will go here gardevains
(p. 88) ITEM, gownnes both lang and demy sū of silke, and sū of clothe bothe furred and lyned.
ITEM, rydyng gownes of silke.
ITEM, doubelettes and shertes.
(88.v) ITEM, hosyn and poyntes.
ITEM, store of rybandes for laces and gurdells.
ITEM, store of bonettes, hattes, botes, spores, burgegeses and shon for hymselfe and hys page.
ITEM, flagons and botayles peces or gobeletts.
(88.x) ITEM, a good pelow to sleppe on.

FOR his botye felow and hym.

IN pmis, a pavylyon and an hale for their horses and servantes, and yeff they ij may have a good strong chariatt wt stronge draught for ther tent hale and oder rayment and necessaries, hit wer well (88.xv) doon, for a cart is soon over throwyn and may nott cary oon of your stuff. Item, a low salt.
ITEM, a barber wt his basyn, wiche may serve theym bothe wt store of towells, I meen to weshe in dayly as well as for shavyng.
ITEM, oon or ij hachettes to hew wod, and to make logynge (88.xx) for the yemen.
ITEM, a short sythe or ij to mow grass of the medowe for ther horsemen.
ITEM, iij or iiij hokys to cutt fechess and corne. Item, and ther carters bey weell chosyn, they may bothe sett your tentes wythe of (88.xxv) oon or ij of ther foottmen, and wythe ther cart-horses to feche ther forage, and to make ther logyng.
As for cook, every man can be cher wt help of vitalers, hit wer good to have store of salt, poudre (= seasonings) and vynegar, and salet oyle and spyce.
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commentary will go here including words and phrases which are nicht auf Englisch.

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