Fashion in the Age of Datini

The Limburger Chronicle

Author: probably Tilemann Elhen von Wolfhagen
Original Language: Middle West German
Place of Composition: Limburg an der Lahn (not the same as the Limburg in the Netherlands
Date of Composition: after 1402
Source of Text: MGH Dt. Chronik IV, 1 https://www.dmgh.de/mgh_dt_chron_4_1/index.htm#page/36/mode/1up
Source of Translation: My own 2021
Conditions of Use: Please give me credit for transcribing this text. Please give me credit for the translation and ask permission before quoting in print.

The Limburg Chronicle was probably written by Tilemann Elhen von Wolfhagen after 1402. It contains many details of changing fashions in the Rhineland, and unlike some famous British chronicles it is in the vernacular. Tilemann was roughly a contemporary of Datini, so these passages about the years around 1350 must be based on earlier sources and now his own observations.

Original Translation
(35.xvii) 20. Item in der selben zit und manich jar darvor da waren di wapen also, als hernach geschreben stet. Ein iglich gut man, fursten, greben, herren, ritter unde knechte di waren gewapent in platen, unde auch di burger, mit iren wapenrocken darober (35.xx), zu stormen unde zu striden, mit schoißen unde lipisen, daz zu der platen horet, mit iren gekroneten helmen, darunder hatten si ire kleine ponthuben. Unde furte man in ire schilde und ire tartschen na unde geleven, unde di gekroneten helme furte man uf eime kloben. Unde furten si an iren beinen strickhosen unde (36.i) darober große wide lersen. Auch furten si beingewant, das waren roren von leder gemachet als armeleder von sarocken gestippet unde isern bockele vur den knien. Da worden di reisige lude geachtet an hondert oder zweihondert gekroneter helme. translation will go here
21. Item die kleidunge von den luden in Duschem lande was also getan. Di (36.v) alden lude, mit namen di manne, drugen wide unde lange kleider unde enhatten nit kneufe an den, sunder an den armen hatten si dri kneufe, vir oder funf. Di arme waren bescheidelichen wit. Unde di selbe rocke waren umb di brost oben gerun- ziret unde gefrenziret unde waren vornen ufgeslitzet bit an sinen gortel. Unde di jungen manne drugen korze kleider, di waren abgesneden uf den lenden unde gerun- ziret (36.x) unde gevalden, mit engen armen. Di kogeln waren groß. Darnach zuhandes drugen si rocke mit vir unde zwenzig oder drißig geren unde lange heuken, di waren gekneufet vorn nider bit uf di fuße, unde stumpe schuwe. 21st item: the clothing of the people in Germany also did something. The (36.v) old people, with names as men, wore broad and long clothes which did not have buttons on them, unless they had three, four, or five buttons on the arms. The arms were somewhat wide. And the same coats were runziert around the chest at the top and frenziert and were slit in front up to the girdle. And the young men wore short clothes, which were tailored at the loins and runziert and valdet, with narrow arms. The hoods (kogeln = German Gugel) were big. Darnach zuhandes they wore coats with 24 or 30 gores and long heuken which were buttoned in front all the way down to the feet, and blunt shoes.
(36.xii) Item etzliche trogen kogeln, di hatten vornen einen lappen unde hinden einen lappen, di wanten eime iglichen an sinen knien; di lappen waren vursneden unde gezadelt. Daz hatte manich jar geweret. Item: etzlich wore hoods which had a flap in front and a flap behind, the gloves eime iglichen to the knees; the flaps were sewed up and mangled. Daz hatte manich jar geweret.
(36.xv) Item di herren, ritter unde knechte wanne daz si hobeten, so hatten si lange lappen an iren armen bit uf di erden, gefudert mit kleinespalde oder mit bunte, als den herren unde rittern zugehort. Item: the lords, knights, and servants, if it hobeten them, then they had long flaps on their arms hanging down onto the ground, lined with kleinspalde or coloured, as belonged to the lords and knights.
(36.xvii) Item di frauwen gingen gekleidet zu hoben unde zu dornzen mit parkleidern unde darunder rocke mit engen armen, unde daz oberste kleit hiß ein sorkeit unde was bi den siten bineben unde ufgeslityet unde daz gefudert (36.xx) mit bunte zu winter oder mit zinde zu somer, darnach ez zemelich eime iglichen wibe was. Auch trugen di frauwen, die burgersen in den steden gar zemeliche heuken di nante man felen, unde was daz kleine gespens von distelsait, krus unde enge bi ein gefalden, mit eime saume binach einer spannen breit; der koste einer gulden oder 10. y
x y

The above transcription is fully proofread

Original Translation
(38.xxiiii) 27. Item darnach ober ein jar da dit sterben, dise geiselerfart, romerfart (38.xxv) und judenschlacht, als vur geschreben stet, ein ende hatte, da hup di wernt wider an zu leben unde frolich zu sin, unde machten di menner nuwe kleidunge. Di rocke (39.i) waren unden ane geren unde waren auch nit abegesneden umb di lenden unde waren also enge, daz ein man nit darinne geschriden konte, unde waren di rocke ein spanne nahe ober di klien. Darnach machten si di rocke also korz, ein spanne ober den gortel. Auch trugen si heuken, di waren alumb ront unde ganz, daz hiß (39.v) man glocken; di waren wit, lang unde auch korz. Item da gingen auch di langen snebel an den schuwen an, unde di frauwen trugen wide heubtfinster, also daz man ire broste binach halbe sach. (c/o Bertus Brocamp) A year after this mortality (the plague), ... had ended, the world started to live and be merry again and the men made new clothing. The cottes were below without gores and were tailored narrow around the loins and were so tight that one could not stride in them, and the cottes' length stopped a span (c. 20 cm) above the knees. After this they made the cottes so short that they only reached a span below the girdle. They also wore hoykes, these were a full circle, they were called clocks (= bells); they were wide, long and also short. Also long beaks went onto the shoes, and the women wore wide head-windows (necklines), in such a way that one could nearly see half their breasts.
28. Item in der selben zit da vurgingen di platen in disen landen, unde di reisige lude, herren, ritter unde knechte furten alle schopen, panzer unde huben. (39.x) Da achte man reisige lude an hondert oder zweihondert man mit huben. Item di manirunge unde gestalt von den schupen hatten bescheiden lengde, unde di arme wanten endeiles ein spanne von der asseln oder zwo spanne, und endeiles hatten nit me dan da man di armen ußstiß. Unde hatten siden qwesten hinden nider hangen, daz was freidlicheit. Item di underwamse hatten enge armen unde in dem gewerbe (39.xv) waren si benehet unde behaft mit stucken von panzern, daz nante man musisen. y ... Item: the under-doublets had narrow arms and in the weave they were sewed and fastened with pieces of mail shirts, which one called mus-irons
91. In der selben zit da gingen an die Westfeilschen lendenire. Di waren also, daz ritter, knechte unde reisige lude furten lendenire, unde gingen an der brost (61.xxv) ane, hinden uf den rucke hart zugespannet unde wanten also verre als dy schufe in lang was, unde was hart gesteppet, binach eines fingers dicke. Und qwam daz uß Westfalenlande. At the same time the Westfalian lendeniers 'came in' there. This meant that knights, squires and people who raid on horseback wore lendenier, which were worn on the breast, spanned hard behind on the back, and they went as far as the jupe was long, and were quilted hard, almost a finger thick. And this came from Westphalia.

The above transcription is fully proofread.

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