A Bibliography of Early Modern Clothing (1490-1620)

This is a list of books and articles on clothing in Catholic and Protestant Europe from 1490 to 1620 with an emphasis on doublets. These can be hard to find in the main bibliography. If there is a whole series of books from an author or museum, it often just cites one because in the days of the Internet the others are a click away.

I have divided this page into books and articles, websites, and prints, paintings, and sculptures.

Jost Amman and Hans Sachs, Stände und Handwerker (Frankfurt-am-Main, 1568) https://wellcomecollection.org/works/y52ug5tb or https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Das_St%C3%A4ndebuch_(1568) {an illustrated booklet of various stations in life including peasants, kings, and many urban trades. Jost Amman provided the woodcuts, Hans Sachs wrote the verses}
anderson-hispanic-costume
arnold-patterns-of-fashion-3. Use her drawings and patterns with caution!
barich-mcneally-drei-schnittbuecher
bond-dressing-the-scottish-court
fingerlin-textilien-aus-kloster-alpirsbach {the linen or canvas clothing from Klostir Alpirsbach in Germany}
fingerlin-textil-und-lederfunde
geard-goodly-gear-revised {an annotated bibliography}
gnagy-modern-maker-1
Harrison, John. The Wardrobe Inventories of James V (Particularly BL Royal 18C XIV f. 184-215). Stirling Castle Palace, Archaeological and Historical Research 2004-2008. (Kirkdale Archaeology / Historic Scotland: Longmore House, Edinburgh, 2008)
hayward-great-wardrobe-henry-vii
Randle Holme, The academy of armory (1688) 3.iii Taylors http://name.umdl.umich.edu/A44230.0001.001
Caroline Johnson, The Typical Tudor (in press)
Susan North, Jenny Tiramani, Melanie Braun, 17th-Century Men's Dress Patterns 1600-1630 (Thames & Hudson / Victoria and Albert Museum: London, 2017) ISBN-13 978-0500519059 {patterns for all layers of three doublets, a suit of doublet and hose, and a cloak in the Victoria and Albert Museum}
trump-annotated-arnold
Susan Payne, David Wilcox, Tuula Pardoe & Ninya Mikhaila (2011) "A Seventeenth-Century Doublet from Scotland," Costume, Vol. 45 No. 1, pp. 39-62 http://dx.doi.org/10.1179/174963011X12978768537537 {a cut and slashed satin doublet preserved in Scotland, the style is typical of about 1620}
Johannes Pietsch and Karen Stolleis, Kölner Patrizier- und Bürgerkleidung des 17. Jahrhunderts: Die Kostümsammlung Hüpsch im Hessischen Landesmuseum Darmstadt. Riggisberger Berichte 15. Riggisberg, CH: Abegg-Stiftung, 2008. Available for CHF 85 at https://abegg-stiftung.ch/en/
Matthäus Schwartz, Trachtenbuch (1494-1654) An Augsbuger assistant to one of the Fuggers decided to commission a series of drawings of the clothing he wore at different times in his life. He continued the series until shortly before his death when he had the book bound. A copy from 1740 is available on Wikimedia Commons, a facsimile was published by Bloomsbury in 2015 with ISBN-13 9781350197060 (Bookfinder)
Sir John Smythe of Little Badow, Certen Instructions, Obseruations and Orders Militarie (1594) http://name.umdl.umich.edu/A12568.0001.001
Philip Stubbes, The Anatomie of Abuses (1583) http://name.umdl.umich.edu/A13086.0001.001 {handy list of clothing with descriptions, but focused on what the richest and most extravagant were wearing}
sturtewagen-fashion-and-clothing-in-bruges
Naomi Tarrant, "The 17th-century doublet from Keiss, near Wick, Caithness." Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, Vol. 131 (2001), pp. 319–326 {this John Doe deposited in a peat bog in the extreme north of Scotland was dressed in a 'doublet-shaped object' sewn with woolen thread. They guess a date in the 17th century by the style of clothes}

The Abegg-Stiftung has other publications. I have links to the three Spanish pattern-books under Drei Schnittbücher above.

I can also mention some websites which are not in the main list because their focus is after 1500.

Andrew, The Alcega Project https://thealcegaproject.blogspot.com/
Ceallach mac Donal - His Musings http://kelly.dwarfworks.com/sca/. See especially "The 3 Hour Fencing Doublet" which is a handy introduction to the scadian 'bodge something together so people can get out and play' approach.
Centuries-Sewing, "A 16th Century Black Linen Doublet and Unpanned Trunkhose." (5 Feb 2015) http://centuries-sewing.com/2015/02/05/a-16th-century-black-linen-doublet-and-unpanned-trunkhose/ {handy writeup of a project which seems to be inspired by Matthew Gnagy}
Tammie L. Dupuis, The Renaissance Tailor: Recreating 16th and 17th Century Clothing (established 2000) http://renaissancetailor.com/
By Doña Gwenneth of Glamorgan, "Towards a More Period Fencing Doublet." In Ansteorran Academy of the Rapier, A.S. 35 http://kelly.dwarfworks.com/sca/armor/AoRBookletas35fnl.pdf {handy compare and contrast between SCAdian custom and late 16th century practice for outsiders}
Genoveva von Lubeck, "German Wams Pattern Based on the Alpirsbach Doublet Find," The German Renaissance of Genoveva, 5 July 2014 http://germanrenaissance.net/german-wams-pattern-based-on-the-alpirsbach-doublet-find/ {an interpretation of the canvas Wams (doublet) from Burg Alpirsbach. To my knowledge, this is the only working-class doublet which survives.}
Laura Mellin, Extreme Costuming (2000-2008) http://www.extremecostuming.com/home.html
Daniel Rossen, Old England Grown New http://oldenglandgrownnew.weebly.com/
Victoria and Albert Museum, "Tailoring Reading List" http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/t/reading-list-tailoring/

Some more scajun projects are https://vorpalrabbitblog.wordpress.com/2019/10/17/how-to-make-a-quick-and-inexpensive-fencing-doublet-part-one/ and https://historical.chantellegerrard.com/a-and-s-class-16th-century-doublets-a-practical-class-to-pattern-and-fit-your-own/ https://athenaeum.baronyofmadrone.net/exhibits/this-dragonflys-clothing-and-scribal-projects-a-collection-from-three-master-of-defense-elevations/

Some prints, paintings, and sculptures are also useful.

St. Vincent in Catalonian national Art Museum https://buffaloah.com/a/virtual/spain/barc/mnac/sant/sant.html
Hans Memling, Portrait of a Man Montreal https://www.mbam.qc.ca/en/works/14511/
Hans Memling, St. John Altarpiece https://bestpaintingsforsale.com/Uploadpic/Hans%20Memling/big/St%20John%20Altarpiece%20[detail%204_%20left%20wing].jpg
Master of the Legend of St. Lucy, St. Nicholas Altarpiece, Grönigemuseum overview and detail (Sturtewagen p. 48 fig. 8) {a doublet pulled off the shoulders, and a hose worn from a belt over the shirt!}

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